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Well now i have a 6.2 for my '69 GMC...

Darkrider

Lobo Solitario
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Lloydminster, SK Canada
The engine in question is an early block from 1982. I seem to recall reading some where the early blocks were stronger then the newer ones. Or do i have this backwards? I got the engine for free as part of the spare parts that are coming with my '94 Sierra K1500 Ex cab SB. As far as i know the engine was a runner and just needs its head re installed after the valves were cleaned up due to bad carbon build up. What are some upgrades i can do to the engine to increase its durability since i plan on installing a Holset turbo on it.
 
The EARLY 6.2 Red blocks had better metalurgy in 82. They should have BIG valves which would flow nicely. Go with Diamond pre cups (if you can get them in those blocks), new/balanced injectors, head studs, and 6.5td head gaskets.

The big valves made the heads more prone to cracking in to water jackets, be prepared to install 6.5TD heads if they dont pass a pressure test.

You are nearly building my dream truck.....
 
The EARLY 6.2 Red blocks had better metalurgy in 82. They should have BIG valves which would flow nicely. Go with Diamond pre cups (if you can get them in those blocks), new/balanced injectors, head studs, and 6.5td head gaskets.

The big valves made the heads more prone to cracking in to water jackets, be prepared to install 6.5TD heads if they dont pass a pressure test.

You are nearly building my dream truck.....

The engine in question is in fact a Red block! It is coming with two sets of heads. I knew there was one version of the 6.2 that was desirable just couldnt recall what it was. That answers that question! Thanks!
 
The 1982 heads had unique injector threads. You are thus stuck on long body injectors that will not clear a 6.5 side mount turbo. Banks setup may work? Any other 6.2 or 6.5 heads will work with turbo precups as you can put short body injectors in them. The 6.5 heads have the best injector angle for turbo manifold clearance. Do not use 6.2 precups as they limit what you can do and smoke too much turbocharged. Small holes can flow only so much air...
 
That would make it the easiest. Then you can run the 6.5 injectors and turbo system. As was said above the long body injectors that go with those heads will not clear the turbo setup unless you figured out a way to run a center mount.
 
I have run 1986 6.2 heads and have the manifolds wrapped. The turbo manifold has to come off on 6.2 heads to change injectors. It is that tight.
Big exhaust valves and turbo precups in a 6.2 head would be ideal for power.
Clearance is best with 6.5 heads.
 
I have run 1986 6.2 heads and have the manifolds wrapped. The turbo manifold has to come off on 6.2 heads to change injectors. It is that tight.
Big exhaust valves and turbo precups in a 6.2 head would be ideal for power.
Clearance is best with 6.5 heads.

Hmmm.. I could always talk to my buddy about making some headers to do a hummer style turbo set up if i wanted to stay with the 6.2 heads. Either way i have plenty of options.
 
Hmmm.. I could always talk to my buddy about making some headers to do a hummer style turbo set up if i wanted to stay with the 6.2 heads. Either way i have plenty of options.

With respect - these could be a popular item for him to sell. Lots of 6.2 conversions out there. The cost is high for OEM stuff $400 or more per manifold.
 
Running an '82 J code 6.2 with all 6.5 'stuff' bolted on her. (in the '93) You'd be surprised what the old iron will do.

To use the diamond (and other variants) cups, you have to cut new 'keyways' into the heads because the old J head cup alignment 'nubs' are on the opposite side. Be warned that cutting/shimming the cup pockets (heads) may be necessary.

As for Exhaust manifold fitment, just use an 1/8" steel shim (trace a gasket) and two gaskets to get the room for your injector lines/nuts.. Slight xover tweak will be needed.
 
Would a plasma cut steel spacer (1/4" ?) with two exhaust gaskets and longer bolts back the turbo far enough off the 6.2 heads to clear the injector lines?

I was going to knock out the <> precups out my cracked heads and sell them but now I may not, I have a good 6.2...
 
With respect - these could be a popular item for him to sell. Lots of 6.2 conversions out there. The cost is high for OEM stuff $400 or more per manifold.

I will def talk to him about the idea. i kinda have an idea in mind how to go about it. Using two marine style headers with the flanges facing up towards the hood and running the crossover over the top of the motor with the turbo mounted in the center of it.

Running an '82 J code 6.2 with all 6.5 'stuff' bolted on her. (in the '93) You'd be surprised what the old iron will do.

To use the diamond (and other variants) cups, you have to cut new 'keyways' into the heads because the old J head cup alignment 'nubs' are on the opposite side. Be warned that cutting/shimming the cup pockets (heads) may be necessary.

As for Exhaust manifold fitment, just use an 1/8" steel shim (trace a gasket) and two gaskets to get the room for your injector lines/nuts.. Slight xover tweak will be needed.

Couldnt i do something like Burning oil did on his engine swap and just make a spacer out of some flanges and flat plate steel to space the turbo up away from the manifold or where is the interference problem? between the turbo or the manifolds themselves?
 
Would a plasma cut steel spacer (1/4" ?) with two exhaust gaskets and longer bolts back the turbo far enough off the 6.2 heads to clear the injector lines?

I was going to knock out the <> precups out my cracked heads and sell them but now I may not, I have a good 6.2...

I don't know what you need for clearance, I would go to say 3"8" and just one gasket. Two gaskets might burn out.
 
I don't know what you need for clearance, I would go to say 3"8" and just one gasket. Two gaskets might burn out.
I meant a spacer plate between the head and the manifold and the gaskets on either side of the spacer. So the 6.5 turbo and manifold will clear the injector lines on 6.2 heads. How about a spacer on the turbo flange and heads, neither so much that you will need to modify the exhaust lines. Just thinking ahead here.
 
Couldnt i do something like Burning oil did on his engine swap and just make a spacer out of some flanges and flat plate steel to space the turbo up away from the manifold or where is the interference problem? between the turbo or the manifolds themselves?

Below.

I meant a spacer plate between the head and the manifold and the gaskets on either side of the spacer. So the 6.5 turbo and manifold will clear the injector lines on 6.2 heads. How about a spacer on the turbo flange and heads, neither so much that you will need to modify the exhaust lines. Just thinking ahead here.



Yep the funky inj angles on the J code is the problem with the std GM RH 6.5 turbo manifold. Pics of the spare 11ga. spacer. Spacer was plasma-cam cut from a felpro gasket as a template. A few bolt holes need to drilled for spacer to be used- cleaner finish. Once the slag was buffed away, the spacer was a perfect fit.. A water jet would be the bees knees here.

So far so good on the two gaskets.. Was able to reuse the OEM 6.5 Ex-man bolts.

Turbo bolts to manifold just like OEM- same spot. Very small tweak of xover is needed. Seals up fine.

Injector removal with the long-coarse inj at the wider angle (less perpendicular to the plane of head) will definitely need the RH manifold and turbo removed. Close close.

DSC02722.jpgDSC02725.jpgDSC02728.jpg
 
Gotcha.

I meant a spacer plate between the head and the manifold and the gaskets on either side of the spacer. So the 6.5 turbo and manifold will clear the injector lines on 6.2 heads. How about a spacer on the turbo flange and heads, neither so much that you will need to modify the exhaust lines. Just thinking ahead here.
 
Well after making another deal with the friend i got my truck from i now have a complete 6.5 Turbo Diesel that i can scavenge the parts from to build my 6.2 into a turbo. So the plan at the moment is to rebuild the heads from the 6.5 and use them and the rest of the top end from it on the "Red block" 6.2. Eventually i will get the big valve heads redone and modded with better precups. When that is done i will more then likely have my buddy fab a couple different sets of headers to try some ideas. More then likely one set will be copies of the 6.5 OE manifolds that have longer tubes on them to clear the 6.2 injectors. That way a turbo can be fitted without needing to make a spacer plate like you guys are suggesting. Mainly looking into that route for other builders who want to convert and dont have the space to run a Hummer center stack style set up. The other set of headers of course would be the center stack/humvee style set up. Heck who knows...i may eventually work on the idea of a compound twin turbo set up using a stock GM turbo and a Holset.
 
That way a turbo can be fitted without needing to make a spacer plate like you guys are suggesting.

The interference point is the inside of the RH manifold & the center (4-6) injectors. (early 6.2 long inj w/ different angle)

You're moving/spacing the RH *manifold*, not the turbo- well yeah the turbo will *move* because it's bolted right on the manifold- but the turbo needn't be spaced away from the manifold itself- bolt it directly to... Unless the retro-fit into the '69 actually needs it..

Good luck on the swap.
 
The interference point is the inside of the RH manifold & the center (4-6) injectors. (early 6.2 long inj w/ different angle)

You're moving/spacing the RH *manifold*, not the turbo- well yeah the turbo will *move* because it's bolted right on the manifold- but the turbo needn't be spaced away from the manifold itself- bolt it directly to... Unless the retro-fit into the '69 actually needs it..

Good luck on the swap.

Ahhh ok that makes sense then. i thought the prob was interference with the Turbo. Good to know now that i will be getting a complete 6.5 Turbo as well to scavenge parts from for the conversion. There is a spun bearing in the 6.5 hence why that engine wont be used. However i will be using the 6.5 intake to make plumbing a lot easier. There is a chance that this engine wont even be going into the '69s original chassis since i may wind up dropping the '69s cab and this engine on a newer K30 dually chassis. I will be finding out more about that chassis setup next time im out at the yard.
 
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