:skep:
This is not the tool you are thinking of. It is for setting the pump adapter to the block best I can tell. And you don't 'need' it.
If your IP hasn't moved or timing cover hasn't moved a new timing chain set will get you close to factory new timing.
"Line to Line" the sticker under the hood refers to setting the scribe line on the IP to the line on the pump adapter. Did not say it was accurate as it isn't. Ballpark, maybe.
For $100 you should be able to have a dealer or Styandyne shop check and set the timing exactly for you. Takes antique tools and antique techs who know how to use the tools and are familiar with the IDI engines. I have not found factory timing specs. Your 1993 is a mechanical system that needs touch feel and sound. 6.2 is the same and some info is here:
http://www.oliverdiesel.com/tech/timing.htm
You can set the timing by ear. 45 MPH holding speed should have diesel rattle. Add heat by adding throttle and diesel rattle should quiet down. This is when the timing is set properly.
Otherwise you can set the TDC pointer (This was bent by something in the past 15+ years...) with the head off the engine. (Oh yeah is the balancer in good shape or has it slipped with age?) Then look in the IP through the screw turn up cover, 2 bolts driver side of IP, and look for the timing marks in the pump on the rotor. There presence is all I know about it.
It only took me 3 times by ear to set mine by ear and a standard wrench is all you need. With a rope tied to the wrench or you will go 'fishing' for it in the valley.
Further info is if you drop the hammer with the brakes locked and the cold advance is on you should get some steady black smoke. When the cold advance clicks off the smoke will clear. (Don't hold it WOT too long as the auto trans will heat up.) But I have 6.2 heads and military precups so your mileage may vary.
