Thats a good point. I use a whole can of brake cleaner per side. Hose eveything down real good into a drain pan. I like to use a dab of anti sieze on star wheel threads & socket
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Tightening Rear Brake Drum Retaining Nut
- Thread starter DennisG01
- Start date
Thats a good point. I use a whole can of brake cleaner per side. Hose eveything down real good into a drain pan. I like to use a dab of anti sieze on star wheel threads & socket
3500GMC
What T F, over
Another thing, with these huge heavy drums, you could bolt up the wheel then do your adjusting with brake spoons from the slots in the backing plate. With the big offset drums, they do funky things if you don't get them smack dab against the hub.
Last edited:
DennisG01
Member
Perfect, thanks again, guys!
3500GMC: What about just running the lug nuts onto the drum to hold it tight? It's just that it's much easier getting back there if the wheel isn't in the way. Also I happened to notice that the AZ drums you mentioned where for a 4.8" hub hole. My drum fits a 4.6" hole and would be $82 from AZ. I only bring this up because you said you had a set already and if it was the wrong set, you could exchange them before you tear into the job. But, maybe yours are larger because it's a 1-ton? I dunno - both part numbers came up as options for my Suburban.
Brake cleaner? Yeah... I outta buy stock in it!
3500GMC: What about just running the lug nuts onto the drum to hold it tight? It's just that it's much easier getting back there if the wheel isn't in the way. Also I happened to notice that the AZ drums you mentioned where for a 4.8" hub hole. My drum fits a 4.6" hole and would be $82 from AZ. I only bring this up because you said you had a set already and if it was the wrong set, you could exchange them before you tear into the job. But, maybe yours are larger because it's a 1-ton? I dunno - both part numbers came up as options for my Suburban.
Brake cleaner? Yeah... I outta buy stock in it!
3500GMC
What T F, over
Yeah bigger bearings in the 1 ton maybe.
I use a few lugs snugged down to check/adjust, yes.. Does the same.. Use all 8 if you want, 4 will work. Or 2, really.
I use a few lugs snugged down to check/adjust, yes.. Does the same.. Use all 8 if you want, 4 will work. Or 2, really.
DennisG01
Member
Sounds good. I'll be picking up the parts today. I also ordered a Russell SS brake hose kit (3 hoses) from Summit. I don't know if I'll have time to tackle this project this weekend, but I'll post back when I do. Maybe I'll get some pictures for future reference (for others)?
DennisG01
Member
Ha!!!! The drums have "80000" stamped right on them! So, either the NAPA guy is getting bad info, or the AZ drums are, in fact, decent.
Oh, I measured the hub hole wrong. I do have 4.8" holes. I'm sure NAPA will credit me the difference in $$.
Oh, I measured the hub hole wrong. I do have 4.8" holes. I'm sure NAPA will credit me the difference in $$.
3500GMC
What T F, over
So NAPA tacked on another $15 a piece for the same #80000 drum... Interesting.
Like I thought, same white box, different label.
4.8" pilot here too.
Best of luck with the brake job.
Like I thought, same white box, different label.
4.8" pilot here too.
Best of luck with the brake job.
DennisG01
Member
How'd you know it came in a white box?
3500GMC
What T F, over
Oh, well uh, call it intuition.
When I bought front rotors for my '93 I went to O'rielly and said gimme two... Out walks two rotors, one in the plain white box with a sticker, the other in a white box that was actually a fancier inked box with the Wagner 'mural' logo if you will.... Guess which one was U.S.... There was no way I was using a china rotor on one side and a domestic rotor on the other side...Not for me Sam.. So I totally LUCKED OUT and found another Wagner U.S. rotor from one of their other stores and they had it sent. Turns out they are some of the last WAGNER pro rotors that were made in the U.S. Wagner is now the same crap as the rest.
I scored some NOS wagner brake hoses and whatnot from RA... On closeout... U.S. made...
Another fine domestic parts source down the f'in drain...
Sorry for the rant..
Yeah I know my plain white boxes.
DennisG01
Member
Well, I finally got around to it the other day. Went fine - tore the right side apart. Then I started to remove the axle line off the wheel cylinder... the line started to turn with the nut. So I backed it off, forward and back a few times. Still was turning so I figured "go for it". Nope - it broke (turns out it was pretty corroded right there). Rather than go and buy a bender and flare tool, I decided to just have a local shop finish it up. So, a little further up the line I bent it back on itself a few times and then hose clamped the rubber line, too. I put just the wheel back on (no drum or brake hardware) and drove it carefully to the shop. All is better.... except they said I need new lower ball joints.....
Thanks, everyone, for all the help!!!!
Thanks, everyone, for all the help!!!!