Problems with 94 during injection pump install

[chestatee]

A fried was helping his dad to install a new IP on his 94 Chevy 6.5 td. He put it in with timing off dad and tried cranking itl he got fuel coming out of line but said he heard a loud snap or crack on the Turbo side of engine. They pulled gear cover and the crank/cam was off bad. I helped them get it back together and tried starting it for 2 day with no luck.
I would appreciate your constructive feedback on this or your opinions.
Thanks
Michael

 

[Burning oil]

The IP gear?
If nothing was damaged you need to make sure timing marks are lined up on crank/cam/IP then try again.
Never move the IP with engine running and make sure top nut is tight while checking timing then tighten the other two when done.

 

[WarWagon]

What was the initial problem? You are at "throwing an IP at it" why? The IP may not be solving the problem.

Noise may be the started getting mad from working so hard. 30 seconds of cranking and 2 min to cool. 10 min of this and you need to solve the problem of why it isn't starting. Or replace the starter and figure it out anyway...

It is impossible to put all 3 bolts in on the IP gear if the pump isn't timed right to the gear.

I hope they replaced the chain. They stretch a lot in 30K miles then tend to be stable.

Your initial timing may be too far retarded. You can line up the line on the pump and timing cover and hope it is right. Advance up to a 1/4" to see if it fires.

 

[chestatee]

There is a need to clarify since my statement is being misinterpreted or I wasn't clear about situation, either way is fine but clarification is obviously need.In the first sentence " A fried was helping his dad to install a new IP friend was not checked for spelling- sorry, I was thinking about good Southern Fried chicken for Dinner.

Its not my truck and what I know is the IP had went bad from what I was told; I was trying to assist a friends family after the fact or clean up their mess, which is not a good thing. The last thing I found out was that he heard a break/crack near the turbo when he tried cranking it with the timing off.
I was asking for opinions based on what info I had, its fairly simple but never easy to deal with these situations.
At the time of this post I had drew an opinion, either a push rod, valve snapped there's no other conclusion under those circumstances. Their pulling the valve cover off today.

Thanks

 

[WarWagon]

Helping friends and eating fried chicken is all good. Nice of you to help, but, you got a mess on your hands - nothing that can't be figured out esp. with help from here.

If you have compression you can get it to start even with one or two dead cylinders. Then engine in my pic started and ran with 1 locked up and shattered piston.

Looking under the rocker covers you are looking for a broken nylon button in the center of the rocker. Bent push rods would be your other clue. IMO a waste of time as you can hear the starter load on compression. A missing cylinder will be clear as the starter zips past it in an uneven cranking sound. It is possible the IP drive shaft broke in the IP with that noise - do you still have fuel at the injectors?

If it was mine:
Again I would find out what brought them to replacing the IP.

Check the fuel. Run the lift pump manually and put some fuel into a clear glass container from the water drain. The water drain is the brass t valve thing by the thermostat. Let it settle 2 min. Is there water in the bottom of it? Does it smell like gasoline? Both mean the fuel is 'bad'.

Next, How are the glow plugs? Check the ones you can reach with an ohm meter for 1 ohm or less. Pull one and check it to 'glow' being careful not to burn it out if it is a 9G. Check for voltage to the plug with the Wait to Start lamp on - assuming that lamp comes on. These engines will not start without glow plugs.

How fast is it cranking? You need 100 RPM minimum cold RPM cranking and 150 RPM hot or it isn't going to start. Check that both batteries are good. Starter could be dragging/bad. Make sure the rear bracket is on the starter or it will break the block at the starter bolt holes. Battery cables including the positive cables are famous for wicking up battery acid and corroding internally.