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New to me...:)

M

mr_goodwrench_06

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I finally bought the Burb I have wanted for many years!

It was owned by a friend of mine and has been put through a lot, but it runs and drives really good. The problem with it is the interior and some electrical issues. The interior is in pieces. He has been collecting the parts to convert it to a grey interior but never installed it after getting the parts and stripping the old stuff out. Also, he added power windows and locks and some other things as well. Now I have to figure out how to put it all back together properly!

The engine starts well and has lots of power. The 5 speed was just rebuilt.

I do have one issue so far that is a little concerning. The underhood fuse center...There is a spot for a fuse (I'm unsure which fuse #) that has a jumper wire instead of a fuse. To start the truck you need to put power to the jumper wire. This will activate the glows and fuel pump. Then you can start the truck. To shut it down, remove the power that is run to the jumper...

I haven't had much time with it yet but I'm sure I'll be finding irratating things as I go along. :(

BTW...The turbo whistle on this truck is very loud. Louder than I have heard before on a 6.5...Any idea why? Stock aircleaner assy...

Thanks everyone,

Bill
 
Might be helpful to know which fuse, rather than taking 46 wa guesses, eh - air leak between compressor and heads, inclusive.................
 
A picture is worth a thousand words. Post a pic of the fuse box and someone will probably chime in.
 
Ok, It seems the IGN E, ECM 1 and ENG 1 fuses are not powering up with the key and what the p/o did was backfeed the system with the jumper system. Looks like there is one wire, pink, from the ignition that feeds these 3 things. I can't see if it comes from the key to the fuse block or if there is something in between.

I've got lots of electrical to work through on this thing. :(

Bill
 
Even now, the wait to start light doesn't come on. The glows cycle, but no light. :( This truck was converted to gas at one point and then back to diesel, so there are some odd electrical things going on. Also, he was in the process of adding power windows and door locks. I have to figure that out too. LOL It's a bunch of work, that's for sure.


Bill
 
Really? Ok, is the ign switch diesel specific? How about year specific? I can probably get one from the P/O as he owns an automotive recycling center...

Now, to start working on the power windows... LOL

Thanks,

Bill
 
No use getting a used switch - the problem is universal amongst the 6.5 vehicles - unless you're mechanically gifted you'll need to bite the bullet here and spring for a new unit - otherwise it requires disassembling both switches, removing the burned IGN contacts from the defective sw, replacing them with the not-burned ACESS contacts from the second likely defective sw, reassemble the healed one, go from there...............
 
Ahhhh, I misunderstood at first, I thought it was the key cylinder you were refering to. You are actually talking about the part further down the column that the rod runs to, correct?

I remembered reading about ign. problems with these trucks, but never paid much attention to what was going on before. Doh! LOL

Is this a dealer only item, or can it be had at NAPA or somewhere similar?

Thanks,

Bill
 
HOLY CRAP!!! I just called NAPA and found out that there isn't the little box on the column that I thought there was and that the wires all go to the actual switch. Price? $300.00!!! This sucks. :(

Bill
 
Some of the aftermarket versions use thinner\smaller contacts, weaker springs, thinner plastic, etc - NAPA usually sells the oem\marquee item in the oem\vendor's carton, but best bet is MrGoodParts on that switch (or take yours and compare quality) - it is a mechanically-operated relay-type, where the rod from the lock-cylinder pulls the spring-loaded contactor-bars down across the contact-terminals - not anywhere near as reliable as the old knife-switch sliding-contact versions

BTW, got the identical switch oem in my '83 Datsun 4wd KC pickup (became NISSAN in '84).......................
 
I replaced the ignition switch in my 95LD. Yes very spendy. A few weeks later the multi-function switch[turn signals,4-ways and wiper] went out. Over$300 for the multi-function switch also. I bought a complete steering colume from the junkyard for $75 with the air bag and air bag controller. Gassers use the same colume.
 
Ok, so I was bored and decided to look at the switch. I followed some guidlines I found using search and was able to remove the key cylinder. No problem. :) So, I played around with it for a while and then decided to test the wires coming out of it. Acording to my diagrams, the pink wire is the one giving me problems. I took out my meter and put it on "beep". Going from the ignition to the underhood fuse panel I got no beep, but instead I got a reading of 665. Not too sure what that means... :( Ok, so then I put the key cylinder back together, hook up the batteries and start testing for voltage. Every wire except yellow has voltage with the key on. My trusty diagrams tell me this is the crank wire, and sure enough when I turn the key to crank, it has system voltage! LOL Ok, I don't know what all this means, but it seems to me that the switch is ok. Since I really don't know what I'm doing and was just fooling around, I don't know if my testing has actually shown anything, but to me it seems that the key is ok.

If my tests are ok and it isn't the switch, where should I look next? I waas thinking a ground check would be a good idea, but I don't know where they all are, or should be...I thought that adding a bunch of new grounds would be a good idea. You can't have too many, right? There are no issues with putting new grounds where there never were any, right?

Thanks!

Bill
 
They want 150min for the columns, here, and that's without the 'wheel - the airbag\horn button is also right at 150, and that doesn't include the 'wheel, either - 'at's right, kiddies: you can pay almost 450 for a complete column around here
 
Connector between the IGN swi and the inst panel harness - reelly big connector btween inst panel harness and engine bay harness
 
Ok, I know where the one at the fire wall is, it's right by the slave cylinder, how about the other one you speak of? Is that the one on the column under the dash? I imagine I should take these apart and clean them with contact cleaner or something similar...

$450.00 for the complete column??? HOLY! LOL. The guy I bought the Burb from is a close friend who included any part I needed to get this thing fixed as part of the deal, so whatever I need, I can get. I just need to know what I need. LOL


Thanks for the help!

Bill
 
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