big block 88
Big Block 88
Nice.. bring some more six in a row means it's slow boys over here we all are down for a little badgering and fun. 
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New Goodies....
- Thread starter Cumminalong
- Start date
dentpusha
LOCKED&LOADED
X2 .............DO IT!!!!!!!
Cumminalong
Doghouse Diesel Performance
Holy crap, was this a pain in the butt!
I'm just about done. All I have left is to adjust the valves and put the valve cover and intake horn back on.
I was working on it from about 8 am today until about 5:30 pm.
I tell ya what, who ever invented that tool is a friggin genius. i couldn't image doing these valves with the one of those $20 AutoZone spring compressors. The #5 and #6 cyclinders are a bastard even with this thing.
Anyways, here some pics. I'll do the DIY tomorrow after I do the valve adjustment.
Prep work.....
All the stuff that had to come out.....
This tool was a life saver.....
The new 110# Hamilton valve springs on the right.....
New billet push rods on the right. Stock one with welded ends on the left.....
Springs, pushrods and rocker studs are all installed.....
I'm just about done. All I have left is to adjust the valves and put the valve cover and intake horn back on.
I was working on it from about 8 am today until about 5:30 pm.
I tell ya what, who ever invented that tool is a friggin genius. i couldn't image doing these valves with the one of those $20 AutoZone spring compressors. The #5 and #6 cyclinders are a bastard even with this thing.
Anyways, here some pics. I'll do the DIY tomorrow after I do the valve adjustment.
Prep work.....
All the stuff that had to come out.....
This tool was a life saver.....
The new 110# Hamilton valve springs on the right.....
New billet push rods on the right. Stock one with welded ends on the left.....
Springs, pushrods and rocker studs are all installed.....
83GMCK2500
Active Member
Looks like a helluva project, more than I'd care to tackle.
Couple questions:
What is the purpose of the heavier valve springs, intend to rev it higher?
What makes up for the fact the 110# springs are shorter than the stockers, or is that not an issue?
Do you have two pyrometers?
The little line with the brass fitting just forward of where the intake horn attaches, is that for boost?
What happened to the second injector, looks like one of the electrical studs is short?
Couple questions:
What is the purpose of the heavier valve springs, intend to rev it higher?
What makes up for the fact the 110# springs are shorter than the stockers, or is that not an issue?
Do you have two pyrometers?
The little line with the brass fitting just forward of where the intake horn attaches, is that for boost?
What happened to the second injector, looks like one of the electrical studs is short?
Cumminalong
Doghouse Diesel Performance
Answer to questions........
1 - Heavier springs were needed for the boost I'm pushing (70+ psi) and to turn up the RPM's (4000 vs 3200). The stock springs only had a seat pressure of 60 lbs and a compressed rate of 73. Not enough to hold them shut and I was having really bad valve float issues. The rockers studs and billet pushrods are insurance for the high boost and high RPM.
2 - The spring height is not an issue. You take up all the excess when you compress the spring during the install. Also, the shorter spring allows for a higher lift cam without binding the spring. If you notice, the Hamilton springs are only 4 coils and the stockers are 6. The stock springs are good up to .443 lift and the Hamiltons are good for up to .500 without binding.
3 - I have 3 pyro's. The two on the exhaust manifold and one on the down pipe, immediately after the second turbo. The ones on the manifold are for the boost egt gauge on the pillar and the controller for the water injection. The one on the downpipe is for the shut down timer. Once my post-turbo EGT gets to 300*, the truck shuts down.
4 - The 1/8 NPT fitting that you see is for the 100 psi boost gauge.
5 - I snapped a portion of the stud when I first did my injectors. It still has enough to attach to and hasn't been an issue. I just use a drop of thread locker on it whenever I put them on.
1 - Heavier springs were needed for the boost I'm pushing (70+ psi) and to turn up the RPM's (4000 vs 3200). The stock springs only had a seat pressure of 60 lbs and a compressed rate of 73. Not enough to hold them shut and I was having really bad valve float issues. The rockers studs and billet pushrods are insurance for the high boost and high RPM.
2 - The spring height is not an issue. You take up all the excess when you compress the spring during the install. Also, the shorter spring allows for a higher lift cam without binding the spring. If you notice, the Hamilton springs are only 4 coils and the stockers are 6. The stock springs are good up to .443 lift and the Hamiltons are good for up to .500 without binding.
3 - I have 3 pyro's. The two on the exhaust manifold and one on the down pipe, immediately after the second turbo. The ones on the manifold are for the boost egt gauge on the pillar and the controller for the water injection. The one on the downpipe is for the shut down timer. Once my post-turbo EGT gets to 300*, the truck shuts down.
4 - The 1/8 NPT fitting that you see is for the 100 psi boost gauge.
5 - I snapped a portion of the stud when I first did my injectors. It still has enough to attach to and hasn't been an issue. I just use a drop of thread locker on it whenever I put them on.
Last edited:
- Staff
- #26
Nice Job! Keep us updated on your results! It looks like it will give good power!
83GMCK2500
Active Member
Wow, thank you for the replies and pictures. That is one heavily monitored engine. How many of your mods did you install yourself?
I've watched a few sled pulling videos where the truck runs up to 4k or higher, good lord do those CTDs sound awesome running that hard.
I've watched a few sled pulling videos where the truck runs up to 4k or higher, good lord do those CTDs sound awesome running that hard.
Cumminalong
Doghouse Diesel Performance
Gotta keep an eye on the goods. Making power is fun, blowing it up ain't.
EVERY wrench that has touched this truck has been mine, with the exception of the tranny. I had SunCoast do that. That's one thing I'm NOT comfortable working on.
I like doing all my own stuff on the truck. 1 - It's kinda my own little Zen, and 2 - I know it's done right.
The only thing that keeps a Cummins from turning 4K off the lot is those valve springs, they are just too soft to to react fast enough.
Now......time to get a few hours of dyno time and get 'er tuned right.
:coal:
Cumminalong
Doghouse Diesel Performance
She's up and runnin'!
Idles smooth, boost is solid, pressures are all good.........no issues what so ever.
Idles smooth, boost is solid, pressures are all good.........no issues what so ever.
83GMCK2500
Active Member
Excellent. WOW, until I saw the video I didn't comprehend why #5  were so difficult to get to. Only thing I've ever done is regular oil changes on a 97 12V, I didn't realize the engine had been pushed so far back.
Cumminalong
Doghouse Diesel Performance
Yeah, #5 and #6 are a PITA! God fobid you screw up and need to re-do something on those 2 cylinders. It's enough to make ya want to run into a brick wall.
Other than that it's a very simple engine to work on. I mean the design hasn't really changed that much over the years, with the exception of the fuel system and the head design.
Other than that it's a very simple engine to work on. I mean the design hasn't really changed that much over the years, with the exception of the fuel system and the head design.