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My Shop

I had a hole in the head from using a live center in the tailstock and used it. If I had to do it again the hole would be slightly deeper ( some material ended up in the bottom of the hole making it shallower. Then I took the right size torx insert bit and held it with a pair of vice grips, then heated the head red hot with a propane torch and hammered the bit in. The other thing I'd do different is grind the insert bit a little shorter so that where it flares larger would actually come into play and make the opening slightly larger. Oh and I used a deep socket in my vice to hold the screw while doing this.
 
So we did the cluster swap yesterday. We got the cluster and drac out of the 92 blazer that we used the running gear and frame for the Studebaker. Used this document for the basis of the swap. https://docs.google.com/document/d/...ouid=111967313848201673912&rtpof=true&sd=true
I ended up drawing the plugs out to make it easier for us.
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It went fairly well but it would have been nice to list the circut numbers to be able to use them as well.
 
So the only issue I have now, so far, is when I turn the key on the brake light flashes and flashes a code 99. The check engine light comes on with bulb check too. I'm leaning towards it being a ground back feeding. On the newer plug the diagram shows the 2 grounds tieing together. Haven't had a chance to find the old plug wiring diagram.
 
Working on my son's 89 again. We needed to replace the parking brake cables. So we pulled off the drums and the passenger side had been puking oil. So we pulled the axles and then the seals and bearings. Then looking in the tube discovered a ton of rust scale debris so I made up this tool to clean out the tubes.20240321_195703.jpg20240321_195707.jpg20240321_195743.jpg
Worked like a champ, we'd put some gas in it and then open the ball valve and sweep back and forth while slowly pushing it in further. Took about 3 passes per side.
 
I use about a 1/2” piece of pipe. Sharpen a larger flat warsher, weld the warsher to the pipe.
Use that for a scraper within them axle tubes. Then scrub them out with a bore brush and mineral spirits.
Use one of those blow guns with the rubber tip fitting that screws into the blow gun. Adapt a length of steel fuel tube to fit the blow gun threads, a sharp bend on the outlet end and that works mighty fine for blasting loose any additional rust and dries out the solvents.
Yes, carrier and bearings needs to be removed.
 
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