Lucas Oil Stabilizer

[Gunner0812]

Anyone use it? I use the fuel stabilizer all the time and thinking of using this too. What are your thoughts?

 

[DEERE3594]

I have used it. couple years ago I had a 350 gasser run with a blown oil pan gasket for hours plowing snow with it and about a single quart of oil. no pressure gauge in the truck so I didn't realize.. thing held together and never made a noise.

however after talking to Ashton; our Amsoil man, I am curious to see what he has to say about it

 

[Matt Bachand]

That little gear thing on the counter of the parts store doesn't lie!!!

I have used it in the past, but I'm leary of any oil additive with my oil squirters... I have used it in my 6.5 before when it leaked oil, and it helped slow down the oil pan leak before i replaced it. Havn't used it lately, now that my truck doesn't leak a drop of oil.

 

[Chevylover]

I use it. About 3 bottles with every oil change (I also use Lucas 15W40 HD). Result is high oil pressure and in every situation, even after a long run on the german autobahn when you coasting down the exit lane.

Cu,
Sven

 

[chevyinlinesix]

I used to use it all the time, along with my 0w-40 synthetic oil, and I was getting too low of oil pressure at 5500 RPM on my 383 stroker. I didn't put any Lucas oil stabilizer this time, and my high RPM oil pressure is now back in the comfort zone. Just my experience.

 

[bigdisneydaddy]

From everything I have read its a waste of money, the correct weight and type of oil, changed at the appropriate interval, will not require any supplements.

 

[Wrecker]

the correct weight and type of oil, changed at the appropriate interval, will not require any supplements.

This is my position also, assuming a quality lubricant is used.

I used to use it all the time, along with my 0w-40 synthetic oil, and I was getting too low of oil pressure at 5500 RPM on my 383 stroker. I didn't put any Lucas oil stabilizer this time, and my high RPM oil pressure is now back in the comfort zone. Just my experience.

This could very well have been the result of foaming, this product has been accused of this.

(partially from a prior post)
Generally, oil "Improvement Additives" fall into 3 categories.

1. Viscosity improvers- Products like STP Oil Treatment, Motor Honey, etc. They contain long chain hydrocarbons that raise the kinematic viscosity of the lubricant, thereby temporarily reducing blowby and smoking, and also raising oil pressure. They also tend to quiet a loud engine with slop in the valvetrain. A mechanic in a bottle:sick:.

2. Chlorinated additives- Products like Dura-Lube, Militec, Prolong, etc. These additives have high concentrations of chlorine and can create hydrochloric acid in internal combustion engines, rapidly reducing the TBN (Total Base Number) of your engine oil which can affect non-metallic surfaces and ultimately metal surfaces, causing internal corrosion, pitting, etc. Most use an extremely cheap Group I base stock carrier oil with a high paraffin content, and can significantly contribute to deposit formation. They use Chlorides because they are slippery, anyone ever seen Chlorox used in a burnout pit?

3. Solid Film or Colloidal additives- Products such as Slick 50, T-Plus, Restore, etc. contain teflon/ptfe, molybdenum, or graphite. These add solids to the oil system, again usually with a cheap low quality Group I base stock carrier oil, which adhere to metal surfaces, theoretically inducing a burnishing process (you've seen real burnishing causing the wear lines on the race of a wheelbearing after use, it deforms the surface of the metal due to pressure and sliding action). Unfortunately, these solids stick to each other as much as anything else, forming larger solids, clogging filters, and possibly blocking oil galleries.
Solids may also dam up around bearings, reducing oil flow. Teflon/PTFE can react with some metals such as aluminum and magnesium at high temperature, causing ugliness in turbo applications.


Cliff Notes Version:

High quality oils (you know which ones they are) are specifically designed to perform under given conditions. The additive package in Red Line vs. Mobil 1 (just using them as examples) are completely different because of different base stocks(Group V vs. Group III/IV). Adding a one size fits all additive is a gamble, you just can't know what the results will be.

Most quality product manufacturers specifically recommend not to use an oil additive, and so do I.

 

[Rodd]

I recall seeing a post (I think here) w/ a you tube video using a drill to run one of those lucas oil things at the parts store and there was serious foaming w/ the lucas vs the untreated oil.

 

[Wrecker]

I have seen that, I think it's on BITOG.

 

[Gunner0812]

Thanks the advice guys! I wont be using it!

 

[Matt Bachand]

So meaning there is vacuum in the case, similar to vacuum in the engine crankcase?!?

 

[vegtech]

i had a 220k mile jeep with a 5.9 that had a light rod knock at 2000rpm free wheeling so i put a bottle in, it says it stops knocking and it did! the next day i started it and it SMOKED like you wouldnt believe! this had never happend before. i drove it to see if it would come out of it and it took three miles. i parked it to see if it was just a fluke. the next day, same deal. so i changed the oil and the rap came back and the smoke stopped.

now after that you would think i would never try it again right? nope after reading on here of people using it in there 6.5 i tried it in my 225k 6.5 its been a week and all is good. smoother and less noise