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Long alternator cable

denata said:
Why not take a welding cable?
Click to expand...
I just thought it would be easier and faster to buy a few cables and have them on hand.
Years ago when I stumbled across whatever I got then at a local junk yard, I got several.

Much easier to bolt something on, than to make it and bolt it on.

Can you buy the fusible link separately?
 
do you have a Napa locally in your area? I know it might be a little higher in cost, but they usually will make cables to your spec. they should also have fusible links too. Just keep in mind what the operating current the cable needs to carry. the longer the cable, the larger it needs to be to support the amp draw and not begin to heat up. the fusible link not so much as it's usually short and rated for the application, you just don't want the cable to limit the flow!
 
jrsavoie said:
I'm missing it. Current application is replacing a generator.
If anyone knows of a longer OEM cable, let me know.

Also clue me in on the joke.

I can be a little dense at times.
Click to expand...
You're making a longer alternator cable. How is an alternator rated? In Amps. What is an Amp? A measure of Electrical Current.

Hence, the proper length of alternator cable for the vehicle would be (drum roll, please). . .

The Current Application! 🤣🤣🤣
 
You can never go wrong making the alternator charging cable several gauge sizes larger than the stock one, as the OEM engineers go with a size that is barely large enough to carry the load projected. Now add additional battery drain such as a plow, hi power stereo, auxiliary lights, etc and then a higher output alternator than stock (like a 200A vs 120A) and that wimpy alternator wire and fusible link is just waiting to melt. Your better alternative is to go with a heavy gauge (8 or bigger) multi-stranded oxygen-free copper wire, with non-corrosive crimped terminals that have been heat shrink insulated and using a resettable circuit breaker rated at the alternator's output inline.
 
Husker6.5 said:
You can never go wrong making the alternator charging cable several gauge sizes larger than the stock one, as the OEM engineers go with a size that is barely large enough to carry the load projected. Now add additional battery drain such as a plow, hi power stereo, auxiliary lights, etc and then a higher output alternator than stock (like a 200A vs 120A) and that wimpy alternator wire and fusible link is just waiting to melt. Your better alternative is to go with a heavy gauge (8 or bigger) multi-stranded oxygen-free copper wire, with non-corrosive crimped terminals that have been heat shrink insulated and using a resettable circuit breaker rated at the alternator's output inline.
Click to expand...
I probably would have gone that route but the circuit breakers I bought, turned out to be crap. Kind of fell apart on me the last time I used them.
For this application, the only thing being run is up to 6 LED lights
 
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