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John Deere info needed

Twisted Steel Performance

Twisted Steel Performance

Anything worth doing is worth overdoing.
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Pauline, SC
I am in the market for another tractor...

I found a 1978 2030 W/ loader, one owner, a little rusted over all but not real bad they are asking 7300$ for it...

Another is a 2955 no loader, this one is around 11,000$...

Not sure about the hours on either one. I need a loader for haying but I'm not sure I can find a loader for the 2955, but would like the bigger HP.

What loader will fit the 2955 ??

Also, what should I check in these older machines, I don't think I can pull a oil sample on either one right now ?
 
Your never going to go wrong with a 2030. 2955 takes a 760 loader iirc but now you're adding cost.

Sent from my SCH-I535
 
Finding a used loader and the right mount kit would be difficult, if not near impossible. At least out this way. I did a quick check in the sources that I normally use and didn't see anything anywhere in the 11 Western States region. A new one shouldn't be a problem though. A friend of mine had an old Oliver Cletrac diesel agricultural dozer and wanted to put a loader on it so I contacted Woods and they had a setup listed for it (was actually for an Oliver tractor but everything was the same since they used basically the same chassis). Bolted right on.
 
I am no expert by any means but I look for major drips and leaks, where the clutch linkage engages for travel and PTO, how it cranks up cold/smoke/blowby and how bad, any bent lift arms or welds. I dislike brake pedals not independent, anything home made on the 3pt lift etc. Make sure draw bar and all linkages stabilizers are there or deduct cost. Basic overall appearance look for any replaced parts like radiator and water pump etc. See if it picks up weight on the 3 pt hitch smoothly. Then look to see if any leaks appear under load. How much slop in steering and lift joints. Tires are expensive if worn out tires deduct ~$1500 from avg cost or find cost of new tires.

tractordata dot com should give specs then look up same model on tractorhouse dot com and fastline dot com and or rockanddirt or machinefinder (if deere) to compare prices and appearance etc.
 
Check 3pt, pto, clutch feel, steering, if it has a loader make sure it cycles good.

The 55 is hands down the better tractor as far as creature comforts and being user friendly. The 30 series is still a good solid tractor and capable as any other but hyd's will be slower, shifting is typically a bit harsher, and road speed is slower.

You can find the loader, there was one in oklahoma just last week.
 
You will need to get a new bucket, that one is pretty rough. Check the 3pt for slop, if its done alot of lifting/pulling with it then expect it to need a rebuild soon.
 
Chris how far are you willing to travel to get one? What is your time frame for purchase? The 2030 seems like a decent deal but looks a bit ugly. Its not as ugly as my '72 ford 2000 with missing front grill though ;). For the money if it operates well it could be cleaned up and be a good tractor. The self leveling loader is a plus.

I don't like the way JD did the lift arm stabilizers on those older tractors. I like the outboard turnbuckle chains or adjustable arms better. You can offset stuff and has to be easier to hook up implements. But I have never hooked up one like that can you take off the "wedges" then reinstall after implement is on and centered? Can't tell if the right side telescopic lift arm has a broken mechanism. Telescopic arms are nice especially with adjustable outboard stabilizers when changing implements.
 
We have a 2030, my dad's uncle bought it brand new in around 76-77. It killed him in '78 when he rolled it in a gravel pit. We use it as a yard tractor and for baling, etc. It's good for small stuff, but it's overloaded pretty easily, so if you expect to use the loader for big heavy things, you might be pushing it. Also, the hydrostatic reverser is nice, but can be really sluggish when cold. I'd say $7300 is top of the market for that one, for sure, especially looking at how rusty the loader is.
 
I agree 60 hp is a bit on the lite side for bale handling, A cab or ROP is a must with a loader handling bales.

Mebbe check into Belarus,..for that money or less one can get a mid ninety's 100 hp one with 3 point hitch a cab a loader and front assist.

...low hours to boot..;)

my2c
 
If I understand what Chris wants it for (horse farm work), then the 2030 is about the right size. Similar to my (and schiker's) Ford 2000. Mine is with an industrial loader and 6" bucket lip extension though. Hard on spindles for sure.

Sent from my SCH-I535
 
I agree on it being a decent size for a yard tractor. You can feed a bale or 2 (imo put a bale on 3pt for counter weight) clean pens, and mow a pature. Also a good size for a small square baler.

I am looking into a 301-302A Industrial JD. Basically a 2030 w/ a bit more juice, lower stance, and bigger hyd pump. It will be used for driveway upkeep, feeding our 6 horses and 2 bulls I house in the pens, cleaning up old hay, and brush beater duty.
 
Well I bought it for 7K... the pics make it look worse than it really is. It has 2700 hrs and the hr meter does work. It does need tir rod ends & hyd lines on the loader, the bucket is solid just surface rust, 4 new tires, I will be putting water in them for more weight also. They didn't wash the tractor at all to perty it up any and I don't see any oil leaks to speak of.. Think I found a good one for around this area.. it does have telosocip lift arms, but NO swing adjusters/stabilizer chains YET, this will be a must for me to find.... and he put new seals on the arms.

I think this is the orchard model, exhaust goes under & out the rear, I will be looking for a ROPS/canopy, saw some on CL somewhere...

I think it will do fine for 4x5 rolls both making & moving, I'm not into big time farming, just small time work here... and my International B-414 & Kubota will move things here but not safely, it's not very big LOL....

I going to get it home and go through it good, take a few before pics then take it to the "hot rod shop" and paint her up like new and use her ....

One more thing, I need a web site for parts drawings & part numbers so I can find some parts like steering, and such... anyone know of any...

I always wanted a green toy...
 
Pretty good for around here.

For little parts and wear items there are several websites like http://www.tractorpartsinc . com. You should be able to google others. There are a lot of aftermarket sellers of these parts probably made in india or china. A guy in Greer reps these parts will sometimes post on craigslist. Helms equipment in lower part of state, at least one in GA and a couple others scattered around. Some of them have ebay stores. They usually drop ship you parts from somewhere else.

Tractor by net and green tractor talk are some tractor forums for help.
 
There's a good chance it has 12700 hrs unless they said the hrs are correct. A lot of JD tractors around here of that vintage have been around once. My 4250 has over 13000 hrs without a motor job, it doesn't burn any oil either.
 
My 4320 shows 4K but my wifes uncle remembered driving it when he was in his teens and watching it break 10K, could be 24K. My 4010 is correct at 2500 with a dropped valve.
 
All 2030's had the exhaust go underneath. NFC why...

Ours has 7k-ish hours, and gets overhauled every 3k, since it rarely gets to warm up, especially in the winter. Gets used to haul a few dead pigs away, or something, then parked again.
 
This is said to be the real hrs, the man was retired and had a few cows, light small farm things, his daughter said he just didn't have room inside for it, hay & things were higher on the pole... going to put new tie rods & other bushings in the front while I can..
 
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