I bought the electrical kit mentioned and pictured in this thread:
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?29077-Electrical-kits-for-4L80E-s
I finally got to putting it in today:rolleyes5:
The kit is going in a 94 k3500 srw. This truck was throwing a 1-2 shift solenoid code. It wouldn't shift out of low gear.
I figured as long as I had to go in there I would replace everything electrical since the truck is 17 years old and it has 150,000 miles on it.
I had removed the front driveshaft when I was testing the wiring to the tranny.I unplugged the main connector then dropped the pan and filter. I got a bit of a surprise when I looked in the bottom of the pan:yikes::yikes: Dark sludge in the bottom. Very little metalic look to it.


The first thing after the pan and filter was removing the electrical connector from the tranny case. There is 4 hooks that need to be pushed down while holding pressure on the inside part of the connector.
Next was the pressure regulator[force motor][drivers's side front of trans]. It is held in with 1- T25 head screw. A little prying with a slotted screwdriver popped it out.

Next is the TCC[torque converter clutch] solenoid It is held in by a retaining clip in a slot of the valve body. A small slotted screwdriver in the slot will pry the retainer out.

I started plugging the new internal wiring harness on as the new component is installed. All the connectors are different so they can't be plugged in the wrong place:thumbsup:
Next was the pressure switch. It's held on to the valve body with 8mm head bolts. As each component is removed tranny fluid comes out so the drain pan has to stay under while all the work is being done.


The shift solenoids were next. They are not the same and will only work in the correct spot[dummy proof]:thumbsup: Each one is held in with one t25 head screw


Next i put the wiring harness in the retaining clip to hold it in place then smeared some atf on the o-ring of the main connector and slid it in the tranny case.
Installed new filter seal and filter. Pan back on and fill with fluid.


I had to clean the truck end of the main connector because the old tranny connector leaked atf into it. 3 or 4 rinses with wd40 and blow out with air hose got rid of the red atf bleeding out of the connector.
Tools used: large medium and small slotted screwdrivers[to pry solenoids and main connector out],channelock pliers to pull the tcc solenoid out, 1/4" ratchet with T25 bit for solenoid hold dwn screws, 1/4" wobble extension and 10 mm socket for pan bolts, 8mm socket for pressure switch bolts, ball peen hammer to drive new filter seal in. I used a 3/8" ratchet and extension w/10mm socket for all but the rear pan bolts, a trouble light to see and lots of lint free shop towels.
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?29077-Electrical-kits-for-4L80E-s
I finally got to putting it in today:rolleyes5:
The kit is going in a 94 k3500 srw. This truck was throwing a 1-2 shift solenoid code. It wouldn't shift out of low gear.
I had removed the front driveshaft when I was testing the wiring to the tranny.I unplugged the main connector then dropped the pan and filter. I got a bit of a surprise when I looked in the bottom of the pan:yikes::yikes: Dark sludge in the bottom. Very little metalic look to it.




The first thing after the pan and filter was removing the electrical connector from the tranny case. There is 4 hooks that need to be pushed down while holding pressure on the inside part of the connector.

Next was the pressure regulator[force motor][drivers's side front of trans]. It is held in with 1- T25 head screw. A little prying with a slotted screwdriver popped it out.


Next is the TCC[torque converter clutch] solenoid It is held in by a retaining clip in a slot of the valve body. A small slotted screwdriver in the slot will pry the retainer out.


I started plugging the new internal wiring harness on as the new component is installed. All the connectors are different so they can't be plugged in the wrong place:thumbsup:
Next was the pressure switch. It's held on to the valve body with 8mm head bolts. As each component is removed tranny fluid comes out so the drain pan has to stay under while all the work is being done.



The shift solenoids were next. They are not the same and will only work in the correct spot[dummy proof]:thumbsup: Each one is held in with one t25 head screw



Next i put the wiring harness in the retaining clip to hold it in place then smeared some atf on the o-ring of the main connector and slid it in the tranny case.
Installed new filter seal and filter. Pan back on and fill with fluid.




I had to clean the truck end of the main connector because the old tranny connector leaked atf into it. 3 or 4 rinses with wd40 and blow out with air hose got rid of the red atf bleeding out of the connector.
Tools used: large medium and small slotted screwdrivers[to pry solenoids and main connector out],channelock pliers to pull the tcc solenoid out, 1/4" ratchet with T25 bit for solenoid hold dwn screws, 1/4" wobble extension and 10 mm socket for pan bolts, 8mm socket for pressure switch bolts, ball peen hammer to drive new filter seal in. I used a 3/8" ratchet and extension w/10mm socket for all but the rear pan bolts, a trouble light to see and lots of lint free shop towels.