SnowDrift
Ultra Conservative. ULTRA!
I finished these Heath HO injectors up the other day and am not going to try to describe it because it's been talked over multiples of times. Someone mentioned that it's not bad and to just do it. There's really no big fears - just the unknown. Once the turbo is off the passenger side, it's easy, for the most part.
The most time consuming parts were 1) installing the "cap" on the most rearward injector on each side. I had about 1 1/2 hrs. in the one on the pass. side and about 45 mins. to an hour on the driver side. 2) removing the air box that houses the air filter. The designer of this is a mental case and should be put in an institution inside a rubber room. A steel round nut molded inside a rubber bushing will surely never come apart <eyes rolling>. And to replace that little bushing type part, you have to buy the whole $500+ airbox!?! Are you kidding me?
As with Minisub's advice again, I worked the injectors back and forth all the way out. The pass. side was VERY tight all the way out where the driver side wasn't bad at all.
I cleaned up the turbo, too and got the oil off the outside casting. It looks decent now. One thing I did that I don't remember anyone mentioning is once I removed each injector, I wanted to be sure the threads were clean and that there was no junk down in the injector cavity. I took my tapered nozzle on my shop vac and stuck it down each hole before I reinstalled the new injector. That cleaned it up well. One piece of advice, though - Make sure to remove your shop rag from the intake tube or when you get to the cylinder with an open intake valve, your rag will get sucked into the tube.:holyshirt: (I always cover things up when I have an open engine. The intake tube was one of those things I had covered.)
Thanks for all the previous write-ups on these, guys. I read through MANY of them. I didn't break any records on time, but it's a complete job.
The most time consuming parts were 1) installing the "cap" on the most rearward injector on each side. I had about 1 1/2 hrs. in the one on the pass. side and about 45 mins. to an hour on the driver side. 2) removing the air box that houses the air filter. The designer of this is a mental case and should be put in an institution inside a rubber room. A steel round nut molded inside a rubber bushing will surely never come apart <eyes rolling>. And to replace that little bushing type part, you have to buy the whole $500+ airbox!?! Are you kidding me?
As with Minisub's advice again, I worked the injectors back and forth all the way out. The pass. side was VERY tight all the way out where the driver side wasn't bad at all.
I cleaned up the turbo, too and got the oil off the outside casting. It looks decent now. One thing I did that I don't remember anyone mentioning is once I removed each injector, I wanted to be sure the threads were clean and that there was no junk down in the injector cavity. I took my tapered nozzle on my shop vac and stuck it down each hole before I reinstalled the new injector. That cleaned it up well. One piece of advice, though - Make sure to remove your shop rag from the intake tube or when you get to the cylinder with an open intake valve, your rag will get sucked into the tube.:holyshirt: (I always cover things up when I have an open engine. The intake tube was one of those things I had covered.)
Thanks for all the previous write-ups on these, guys. I read through MANY of them. I didn't break any records on time, but it's a complete job.
