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How to drop front diff so I can access motor mounts?

M

mgray

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Location
Vancouver, BC
I can't see any other way of getting my engine mounts changed without dropping the front diff.

Do I just undo the 2 bolts on either side of the axle to frame mount and let it drop a few inches? Do I have to disconnect anything else? I assume the wheels need to be off so the cv joint can flex when the diff gets lowered?

Thanks
 
You do not need to drop the diff.
It takes two people to get this done without being part of the circus. An air ratchet helps this go quick on the bolts it can get to.
You need a wrench for the driver's side. Put it in the frame from the bottom by feel and you have to hold it. Impact or ratchet the bolt with a combo of flex joint tools or bend and pry to get a short air ratchet on it.

Passenger side is harder...

Lifting the engine is also a challenge...
 
Unfortunately the only power assist tool I have, is a big clunky electric impact gun(7.5amps). I don't see how I will be able to use it here.

So according to the diagrams in the FSM, I would have to first remove the center bolt through the mount that actually holds the engine to the mount right? then jack the engine?...how high can I jack before doing damage to the transmission?? Do I have to do anything else before I lift the engine? Also where are some good lift points? Can I bolt brackets to the ground bolts on either side?

Then it looks like I have to undo the 3 bolts holding the mount to the frame, 2 on the top, 1 on the bottom. According to the picture in the FSM, the single bolt on the bottom of the mount has a nut, but doesn't show a nut for the other 2 bolts on the top. They must have nuts too no? How do I access those? It looks like they'd be in the frame?

I'll look again, but I don't think I can even see the mounts with all the front axle gear on. I don't mind taking the passenger side inner fender off again if that will make that side easier. I'm only working with a floor jack and some 2 ton jack stands, so I don't have a lot of room, nor do I feel too safe spending much time underneath. I've got to do this myself as local shops want at least $500-$700 for the job, and that's with me supplying the mounts.

If the front diff is easy enough to drop far enough to gain better access, then that's fine with me. But other than undoing the 2 bolts on the brackets of either side of the front axle, and supporting it with something, I'm not sure what else needs to be done to the front end? Do I have to disconnect other things to drop the diff?

Thanks
 

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Its gonna a PITA however you do it,Removing the PS pump gives better access on the dr side.
You need to lift the engine as high as possible after you get the long trough bolts out.(remove the top rad shroud prior),
Drop both new mounts in position before bolting them down.

IMO Dropping the front axle is to much of a job and might not give better access.

As been said you need 2 persons to do that job
 
So the through bolts can be removed without removing anything else? Then loosen tranny mount bolts, life engine, remove-replace mounts, lower engine, tighten tranny mount bolts and we're done? PITA I know.

FSM calls for removing lower control arms, would that help? Thanks for the heads up on removing the PS pump, anything else that could be removed(besides the whole engine!) to make access easier? It's just the access to the mounts and bolts that I have a problem with

Thanks again Bison!
 
Get a good flashlight. Look up from the bottom over the top of the diff into the driver's side frame. Maybe you can see the nuts on the top two engine mount bolts...

$500-$700 is enough to get a good air ratchet with compressor and "rent" a friend. Beer, cash, etc. Even ask on here and maybe someone can help you with this.

Trans mount does not have to be loose.

It cost me around $250 labor to have mine done at a shop. Less with a paid friend for the next 6.5...
 
Like W W said, don't unbolt the engine from the tranny.
try to lift the engine on the front panrail if you use a floor jack,a piece of heavy flatbar welded straight up to a round stub to fit the hole in the jack would work me thinks,Chain hoist would work better though

It might be helpfull to remove batt and tray on the pass side and/or work trough the wheel well

Have fun.
 
While you are at it, how old is the trans mount? It is likely also due for replacement. Do it after the engine mounts. It will keep the engine from moving forward or back with the engine mounts off.
 
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