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Hey all

A

Acesneights1

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Well I'll hopefully be spendin some time over here and as I learn maybe we can build this section up a little. Just got a 2002 Dodge Ram 2500.
It's got the 56 block. Nice truck all stock. Ist order of business is to get a "real" fuel pressure gauge in there asap because I have been reading up and the VP44 IP that it has doesn't like a no fuel/low fuel situtation. Bad lift pump=dead IP.
Anybody running 2 stroke oil in thiers ?
 
Congrats again on the purchase. As far as using 2 stroke, I have used it in my Cummins since I bought it (12 oz of 2 stroke oil, 12 oz of Power Service in every tank). Used it in my '06 LLY Dmax as well when I had it and was happy with it in that as well.
 
Honestly, the 2 stroke and PS isn't REALLY necessary, but it is a bit of peace of mind.

I normally run it in my truck, so I'm not gonna say it's a waste, I've done it since day 1.

I usually run it at 1 oz of 2 stroke per gal of fuel and 16 oz of PS per tank.

From a near empty tank, I run 1 qt of 2 stroke and 16 oz of PS.

The biggest thing that kills the VP is lack of fuel pressure.

If you are getting below 5 psi to the IP, you're running the risk of damaging the pump. It doesn't like being below 7 psi.

THE single best thing you can do for a VP powered truck is get an AirDog or FASS. Don't go with a 95, skip that and go to the 150. The filters are much more common and more widely available.

Also, with a FASS or AirDog 150, you'll cycle pretty much every drop of fuel in the tank about 3 times before it makes it's way to the engine.

Which unit you choose is up to you. Personally, after installing 3 AirDog's and 2 FASS units', I like the FASS better.
 
Good info. Thanks.
Where is the best place to tap a fuel pressure gauge in ? I noticed many of the autometer electric gauges say "Not for use with Dodge"
Whasssup with that ?
 
Well, What's it mean when you slow down to the point of 1-10 mph and the truck doesn't go back into 1st gear ? I thought it did it a few times while away but since I don't have a feel for the truck I thought maybe it was the camper or maybe the thing i a dog off the line but climbing my mothers driveway(steep) before the truck almost didn't make it up it. Dealer is supposed to take it back wed . They are saying probably a "sticking" sol but to me why would it "stick" after a 400 mile strip. Is it "sticking" because the tranny''s coming apart ?. I'm going to take it to two tranny shops tommorow and get written estimates on what's wrong with it in case the dealer tries to play f' stick. Then atleast I have evidence for a court case. I bought the truck knowing the stock trannys are not good and will need a build up but this is a bit soon plus if I can get a free one why not.
 
Acesneights1 said:
Good info. Thanks.
Where is the best place to tap a fuel pressure gauge in ? I noticed many of the autometer electric gauges say "Not for use with Dodge"
Whasssup with that ?
Click to expand...

The best place for a fuel pressure gauge on a 2nd Gen Dodge, is right at the VP44 inlet.

Here's what you need. This will allow you to use any electric or mechanical guage for your fuel pressure. All it does it replace the banjo bolt and give you a 1/8 NPT port right at the pump.

http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo.asp?number=BF-LONG-TAPPED

Some of them require a snubber line to help protect the pressure sensor from spikes.
 
Acesneights1 said:
Well, What's it mean when you slow down to the point of 1-10 mph and the truck doesn't go back into 1st gear ? I thought it did it a few times while away but since I don't have a feel for the truck I thought maybe it was the camper or maybe the thing i a dog off the line but climbing my mothers driveway(steep) before the truck almost didn't make it up it. Dealer is supposed to take it back wed . They are saying probably a "sticking" sol but to me why would it "stick" after a 400 mile strip. Is it "sticking" because the tranny''s coming apart ?. I'm going to take it to two tranny shops tommorow and get written estimates on what's wrong with it in case the dealer tries to play f' stick. Then atleast I have evidence for a court case. I bought the truck knowing the stock trannys are not good and will need a build up but this is a bit soon plus if I can get a free one why not.
Click to expand...

Check the battery terminals and ALL of the grounds.... body and engine

This is a known issue on the 2nd Gen's for 1 - 2 shifts.

2 - 3 shift issues is usually the governor solenoid or the governor solenoid pressure sensor. Both easy to replace.

3 - 4 shift issues are generally related to the kickdown cable. That can be adjusted....it's under the black cover on the driver side of the engine.

Here's a link to my write-up for the solenoid and sensor, if you need it.

Governor Pressure Sensor and Solenoid Replacement
 
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OK so it may not need a tranny. The body etc "seems" very clean Ie: Not a salt box but of course 6.5s had similar ground issues so I learned long ago that just because it looks clean doesn't mean it is clean. I just want to make sure the dealer doesn't hack his way out of a tranny if it needs one. How long should the stock tranny last under occasinal towing, stock power ?
 
The tranny is normally fine under stock power levels. It'll handle up to about 40 extra Hp before you are cutting into it's life span.

The first part that tends to go is the torque converter. It is pure crap and it the weakest link in there. As soon as funds allow, I HIGHLY recommend ditching it and getting a good one. You'll be amazed at how much better it performs with a decent TC.

If you want a good, long, problem free life outta that trans, you don't need to go to a high dollar, full billet unit. All you need is a decent valve body (SunCoast, Goerend, ATS, etc) and a good triple disc torque converter (same companies)

That's all you need until you start looking at power exceeding 450 HP. After that, you need to swap some tranny hard parts.
 
How hard is a TC swap ? When I say that , I'm saying that as someone who has swapped them on TH350s Th400s etc. Never done the newer stuff although that aspect of it looks about them same. I'm thnking could just pull the shafts, linkages and slide it back enough to swap them or is it more than that ?
 
Acesneights1 said:
How hard is a TC swap ? When I say that , I'm saying that as someone who has swapped them on TH350s Th400s etc. Never done the newer stuff although that aspect of it looks about them same. I'm thnking could just pull the shafts, linkages and slide it back enough to swap them or is it more than that ?
Click to expand...

Same / Same.

Disconnect the front and rear shafts, linkage, wiring harness, cooler lines and drop or slide it back.

If you have a good tranny jack, you may not even need to seperate the t-case from the tranny....although I'd recommend it....it's a heavy SOB.
 
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