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MAGNUM SERVICES

Intelligence Guided By Experience
Messages
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Location
Covington,Kentucky
I posted a lot of things under the title Problem Still Happening! I have now REPLACED The LP, The PMD, The Fuel Filter and last The Fuel Tank! My tank had a lot of silver flakes of something that looks like the inside lining of the ORIGINAL Fuel Tank so I just bought a new one! I cleaned the sock on the fuel sending unit and after many,many tries I finally got the truck to start. It would run for a few seconds and quit. After many tries bleeding air from the fuel system I finally got it to run for a few minutes, then it would quit and be hard to start back! Again, running the LP while opening the fuel filter air bleed to push more air out. When running the LP I get a heavy volume of fuel out of the "T" valve but my pressure gauge is broken so I have no idea how much fuel pressure I have! When opening the bleeder valve on the Fuel Filter the fuel that comes out is very bubbly as it looks like there is still air in the system. After it quits when you open the air bleeder you get a hissing noise out of it! It ran for about four to five minutes then quit again but this time my SES Light came on and I will have to wait until a neighbor comes home to borrow his scanner. My truck has a lot of rust under it from six years of plowing and salting and I am going to try replacing ALL the fuel lines under it before I buy a IP! ANY IDEAS? ANY and ALL Replies will be greatly Appreciated! Thanks, Keith
 
I think your on the right path with replacing fuel lines. Probably have a leak.

Leo
 
have you thoroughly inspected lines between tank and lp for cracks. sounds like air is getting sucked in somewhere. it will be where there is vacuum not pressure. check attached chart
 

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You need to sight glass it Basically use temporary clear tubing in the fuel lines to see where you are getting air.Start at the fuel tank and work back to the filter. It is probably between the tank and the LP because if it was post LP you would see the leak. You could also run a fuel line from the inlet side of the LP to a 5 gal jug of fuel That would probably be fastest way to pinpoint a problem if it is pre LP I would not start changing lines until you find the problem. New lines from the dealer run about 500$
 
Lines are about $200.00 from the Dealer as I have become a REGULAR customer of theirs. They are ordered and one will be here this afternoon and the other tomorrow morning!
 
When you replaced the tank what did the lines on top of it look like? Any pictures?

What do you get for $200, from where to where? Make sure you check or replace everything from tank to fuel filter assembly. the the filter assembly to the Drain Valve too. And might as well replace the lines to the valve and the IP.

Have you tried with fuel cap off?
 
When you replaced the tank what did the lines on top of it look like? Any pictures?

What do you get for $200, from where to where? Make sure you check or replace everything from tank to fuel filter assembly. the the filter assembly to the Drain Valve too. And might as well replace the lines to the valve and the IP.

Have you tried with fuel cap off?

My lines are very rusty except for the ones coming out of the sending unit which are good because they were replaced three years ago! Lines from dealer go from sending unit to front of engine compartment where they look good! I have replaced ALL the rubber fuel lines under the manifold earlier as they were sitting in oil,fuel and antifreeze but now the engine valley is clean and dry. All rubber hoses have clamps on them and do not leak! Yes I have tried the fuel cap off but it made no difference! Thank You, Keith
 
Docdray, your thumbnails were very small and hard to read and I am NOT computer literate enough to know how to enlarge them or print them! Thank You, Keith
 
Perhaps you have crud in the lines causes the LP to not be able to push?

The hiss after stall is what my truck does when my sock is clogged.

When you dropped your tank, did you leave the sock on?

When I drop mine, I'm installing walbro and prefilter and ditching the sock alltogether.
 
Keith, I don't know if its worth it at this point for you, but I have used a temp marine 5 gal fuel can and one of my walbro pumps. Hook the temp tank/pump to the FM inlet and try it again. This just by passes the old fuel lines/system up to the point you tie into. If the truck runs good atleast you know your on the right track.
Good luck.
Leroy
 
Keith, I don't know if its worth it at this point for you, but I have used a temp marine 5 gal fuel can and one of my walbro pumps. Hook the temp tank/pump to the FM inlet and try it again. This just by passes the old fuel lines/system up to the point you tie into. If the truck runs good atleast you know your on the right track.
Good luck.
Leroy

Leroy wasn't it use that blasted a ton of crap out of your old lines and saw improvement?
 
Yep, made a huge difference. Been running fine since then. If I had a guage on it at the time I would have know what the problem was, but not nessisarily where it was.
 
Tonight I pulled the tank and the rusty fuel lines off the truck, tomorrow my new lines from the tank to the LP will be here and so I don't have to drop the tank again I will replace the sending unit too! I have also purchased a fuel pressure gauge to install under the hood before the IP. Thanks to all who replied and I will keep you updated on my progress! Thanks, Keith
 
Tonight I pulled the tank and the rusty fuel lines off the truck, tomorrow my new lines from the tank to the LP will be here and so I don't have to drop the tank again I will replace the sending unit too! I have also purchased a fuel pressure gauge to install under the hood before the IP. Thanks to all who replied and I will keep you updated on my progress! Thanks, Keith

Defanately on the right track to fix this permanately. I'd install a fuel pressure gauge sender before the IP and mount the gauge (digital ones are easiest as no fuel to cab route) in cab is my plan. Need to see it while driving to instantly rule out or see problems IMO.
 
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