Help decifering wastegate controllers

[juddspaintballs]

I've spent the past hour and a half reading up on the Turbo Master manual wastegate controller, how to make my own, etc. I really didn't learn a whole lot. Too many threads making it clear as mud. I was hoping someone else could shine some light on the topic.

I've got a '99 K1500 Suburban with the 6.5. It's been great, gets about 20 MPG and I'm fixing it up slowly. It's the wife's truck for hauling the kids and dog around and picking up groceries. The SES light is on, I had it read right after I got the truck and it had something to do with the boost I think, but I forgot and I don't remember the code. I still need to get it read again...

At any rate, I know my stock vacuum controlled wastegate controller isn't working properly. I don't have a boost gauge yet, but I can feel the turbo not working most of the time and then sometimes it kicks in. I can rarely ever hear it working. I've been considering a turbo master to control the wastegate, but will I need a boost fooler or something? It hasn't been clear to me what years actually need the boost fooler and what years don't. I don't really have an interest in fixing the stock vacuum system.

 

[ak diesel driver]

it's not a matter of what years. All egr equipped trucks will code without vacuum. otherwise set your turbo master fairly conservatively and you'll be fine

 

[buddy]

The Suburban shouldnt have EGR, so thats a plus. Unless its a special CA unit or something. If its confusing I recommend simply purchasing the Heath unit, set it up for 9psi max boost and forget it, no fooler needed then. Only need a fooler if you are running more boost than you need to be, like 12+ psi. Take the vacuum pump off and put on a 99.5" belt (96-2000)

Right now, I would assume your problem is just the solenoid on the drivers side valve cover or a cracked vacuum line.

 

[JMJNet]

You know that you can just call (or website) Heath and purchase it.

I am not sure on your capability to fabricate metals, most of us don't have it.
If you don't, my suggestion is just purchase it.
The quality of the spring and other components are well worth the money.
It can be set at 2.5" and adjust accordingly without any gauge, etc. yet.

 

[juddspaintballs]

I placed the order about an hour and a half ago. Two weeks back ordered! I will probably attempt to make my own in the mean time, though. I have decent capabilities to fabricate. I have a welder and some skill at welding, drills, vices, grinders, etc. I just don't have a lathe or mill...yet.

 

[great white]

Get a guage before you start messing with it.

Seriously, get a gauge.

Without that, you're taking shots int he dark as to what you're setting it at.

You can't go by "feel" or "sound on whther or not your turbo is "working". A guage wil tell you this at a glance.

You need a guage.

Indicators of a turbo not boosting is black smoke and high egt's when deep in the throttle or towing.

Which brings me to the next recommendation;

Get and egt guage.

Seriously, get and egt gauge.



Both these gauges should have been part of the factory instrumentation, but GM "cheaped out" once again.....:rolleyes5:

 

[juddspaintballs]

I just ordered a pair of gauges and a 3 gauge pod actually. I'll add the trans temp sensor later.

Heath's told me that I NEEDED a modified computer to use the Turbo Master because it creates 15+ PSI of boost and that'll screw with my computer. If I keep the boost turned down, that will fix the problem until I get a performance chip?

 

[great white]

I just ordered a pair of gauges and a 3 gauge pod actually. I'll add the trans temp sensor later.

Heath's told me that I NEEDED a modified computer to use the Turbo Master because it creates 15+ PSI of boost and that'll screw with my computer. If I keep the boost turned down, that will fix the problem until I get a performance chip?

Well, if you keep the boost below about 12 psi max, you should be alright.

My stock 98 vac system used to max out at around 12 psi (for a few seconds) and it never coded for over boost. Mine was an "F" Vin code, might be some differences there.

I think there's lots of guys running around with homemade TMs with no problems.

My GM8 is running a heath TM, set at around 12-13 psi max. No codes. But I'm also using a Heath PCM tuned for the TM instead of the vac system.

To gain maximum advantage from the TM though, it really should have an adjusted program in the PCM.

You can set the TM whever you want for max boost before the wastegate opens.

Going much over 15 is going to put you on the ineffecient side of the turbo map though.

That will also code overboost on a stock PCM....

 

[juddspaintballs]

Mine is an "F" code as well. I wasn't planning on going over 12 PSI. Eventually this Suburban is getting a 4" exhaust and modified PCM as well. I don't plan on towing often with it, but I want it to be able to do it when I ask.

 

[great white]

I've run Bill's TM on my 98 and the stock PCM without any noticed issues. That was only for a few days though.

You're probably not going to get all it's capable of out of it, but it should work fine if you limit the boost to around 12 psi max....

 

[buddy]

Set it to 9-10 psi at WOT if you dont want to get a code for overboost. You really cannot use more than that with a stock program anyway. That is sustained, if it pops to 12psi for 1 second thats fine. With a stock program to get best economy, you dont want too much boost becuase it creates more exhaust restriction and hotter air. The higher you set the max, the higher the minimum will be too, and you only want 2-3psi when cruising. With the fueling limit of stock, you dont have enough dynamic range of fueling to need more than 10psi sustained.

 

[juddspaintballs]

http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/sh...ust-temp-gauge&p=359991&viewfull=1#post359991

Gauge pod, gauges, and home-made turbo master built. It's set for 11 PSI max right now and works like a charm.