• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Heater hose question.

I'm glad the link is helpful. I feel like your "very bias opinion" carrys a lot of weight. It sounds like you have had lots of experience with dexcool. I'm also glad I haven't stepped on any toes. [emoji3]
 
I am not sure if you have fixed the leaky quick connect but this is a good thread on how to fix it.

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63...ine/138989-leaking-coolant-quick-connect.html

IIRC, thread is 1/2" NPT.

Take of the quick connect hose before trying to get it out so you can put a socket instead of a box wrench.
That way, you will have better even pressure so the quick connect is not breaking at the threaded part.
 
I have gotten it fixed. I bought a 3/4 and a 1/2 just in case. I tried getting the quick connect apart but the plastic broke apart so I cut the metal part with my tubing cuttee and used a socket like I said. Had to use a small breaker bar but it turned right out.
 
You can pull the metal coolant line off all at one time and split the crimp collar off and replace just the hose and use new clamps for the rubber. I have done it and it does work. I cover the hoses with the old rubber as a chaff guard with zip ties. Also, with that push lock fitting, PB blaster and a baby hammer works really good if you don't have heat. What you do is run the truck to temp and spray the fitting with the blaster. Lightly wrap on the housing not on the connector. Work the fitting gently back and forth while tapping on the housing. It will come loose but it takes time. If the connector breaks in the housing don't worry about it. You can take a 4-6 inch piece of hacksaw blade and split the broken piece in 3 places. When the blade is almost through the broken piece in three places you use a small tipped cold chisel, and a small hammer to knock the sections inward. You only need one section to come loose in this instance to get the rest of it out. Then just bump the left overs inward or pry on them with a screw driver.
I hope this helps. I have a lot of windshield time in a service truck and have had to make it happen at the side of the rode in places that the heavenly creator forgot existed. LOL
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top