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Head install

packratt

Active Member
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Location
near Richmond, VA
Got the heads pulled and they are off to the machine shop tommorrow.

Is it possible to install the heads using studs with the block in the truck? I couldn't get the back bottom bolt out of the pass head and it was a tight fit with the ratchet.

What's the trick?
 
Got the heads pulled and they are off to the machine shop tommorrow.

Is it possible to install the heads using studs with the block in the truck? I couldn't get the back bottom bolt out of the pass head and it was a tight fit with the ratchet.

What's the trick?


The stud would be easier, I used bolts and had to put the bolt in the head then put the head on the engine, then I had to machine down a socket to get the right height to get the torque wrench on it. The stud should be easier because it should be able to be kept in the head easier than the bolt.

It can be down in the vehicle, I have done it a couple of times.
 
How did you get the head over the stud?

I can probably get my 3/8 torque wrench on with no problems.

Should coolant have come out of the 4 head bolt holes that are outside of the valve cover?

Is there an exhaust manifold bolt kit availible (manifold to head)? The heads on the drivers side were right funky.
 
How did you get the head over the stud?

I can probably get my 3/8 torque wrench on with no problems.

Should coolant have come out of the 4 head bolt holes that are outside of the valve cover?

Is there an exhaust manifold bolt kit available (manifold to head)? The heads on the drivers side were right funky.

I put the stud in the head with a piece of mechanics wire holding it in the head above the gasket surface and the had tightened it in the head, double nutted it tightened it properly and removed the nuts then torqued the nut.

The four holes should have coolant since all of the head bolts go into the coolant passage, that is why they recommend sealer on the head bolts.
 
arp studs come with an allen key style socket on the top,.use plenty of sealant,
 
I'd guessed that the coolant was not a problem just double checking. Glad you said something about sealant, Mitchell doesn't mention it.
 
I'd guessed that the coolant was not a problem just double checking. Glad you said something about sealant, Mitchell doesn't mention it.

It isn't mentioned in the gm manual either, guess it must be assumed. The back bolt on the passenger (right) side is a bugger to get to in the vehicle, but it can be done. Make sure you replace the gaskets on the coolant passage block off plate, they have a tendency to leak.
 
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Are aftermarket replacement bolt/stud sets availible for the exhaust manifolds to head or are they dealer only?


Get them bolts from your local fastener dealer,much cheaper, get the hardware grade (5) not grade eight bolts, you will be much happier they stay tight, where the grade eighth bolts have a tendency to loosen up, never could figure out the reason for that. Or get them from McMaster Carr supply house.
 
It isn't mentioned in the gm manual either, guess it must be assumed. The back bolt on the passenger (right) side is a bugger to get to in theh vehicle, but it can be done. Make sure you replace the gaskets on the coolant passage block off plate, they have a tendency to leak.

I just did head gaskets on my jimmy and the GM factory manual said to use a thread sealant. I think people dont care much for the 6.5 so they forget about little things like this. Thats why the down pipe comes mashed flat from the factory and the wiring harness always uses different color wires from every other 6.5.

They mention the sealant for the intake and IIRC for my T-bird's heads.
 
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