• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

GMT-400 to GMT-800 brake conversion tie rod discussion

I don't know if it makes a difference but the one from Speedway is a 2" PER FT 10* and the one from Wallmart is 1.5" per ft 10* I have the one from Speedway but was getting ready to order one from Wallmart, not sure if there is that much difference. From the holes I've reamed it may be better to use a more dull reamer so it actually goes straighter and more forgiving since it takes less metal per revolution. I've had to do them all by hand or with a drill since machine shops that can actually do them want alot of $ and bitch about how hard it is to mock it up straight in a CNC machine. Atleast in my neiborhood of machine shops. I have practiced on some stock boneyard GMT 800 knuckles since I have to do a set of Rancho 4" lift knuckles for GMT 800 truck that cost me $750.00 to fit my GMT 400 with a 4" Trailmaster lift.
 
Last edited:
I don't know if it makes a difference but the one from Speedway is a 2" PER FT 10* and the one from Wallmart is 1.5" per ft 10* I have the one from Speedway but was getting ready to order one from Wallmart, not sure if there is that much difference. From the holes I've reamed it may be better to use a more dull reamer so it actually goes straighter and more forgiving since it takes less metal per revolution. I've had to do them all by hand or with a drill since machine shops that can actually do them want alot of $ and bitch about how hard it is to mock it up straight in a CNC machine. Atleast in my neiborhood of machine shops. I have practiced on some stock boneyard GMT 800 knuckles since I have to do a set of Rancho 4" lift knuckles for GMT 800 truck that cost me $750.00 to fit my GMT 400 with a 4" Trailmaster lift.
The intro paragraph for WalMart listing says 1.5” per ft 10 degree, then down below in the description it says:

Item details​

  • with high thermal hardness, high wear resistance, high hardenability and sufficient plasticity and toughness. and can withstand large impact force and high load operation, can be used many times
  • 10 degree tapered reamer is a universal tool,Tapered Reamer Tie Rod For 2inch Per Foot,tapered designed for proper fitting of ball joints to spindles, tie rod ends to spindles,tapered holes to hold tie rod ends
  • Tapered reamer, 2inch per foot taper (10 degree)
The picture looks the same as the ream from Speedway.
 
Last edited:
I don't know if it makes a difference but the one from Speedway is a 2" PER FT 10* and the one from Wallmart is 1.5" per ft 10* I have the one from Speedway but was getting ready to order one from Wallmart, not sure if there is that much difference. From the holes I've reamed it may be better to use a more dull reamer so it actually goes straighter and more forgiving since it takes less metal per revolution. I've had to do them all by hand or with a drill since machine shops that can actually do them want alot of $ and bitch about how hard it is to mock it up straight in a CNC machine. Atleast in my neiborhood of machine shops. I have practiced on some stock boneyard GMT 800 knuckles since I have to do a set of Rancho 4" lift knuckles for GMT 800 truck that cost me $750.00 to fit my GMT 400 with a 4" Trailmaster lift.
I’m doing them by hand with a right angle drill. Getting the depth right is the tedious part.

I’ve got the tie rod holes reamed. Will be working on the depth for the ball joint holes.
 
The intro paragraph for WalMart listing says 1.5” per ft 10 degree, then down below in the description it says:

Item details​

  • with high thermal hardness, high wear resistance, high hardenability and sufficient plasticity and toughness. and can withstand large impact force and high load operation, can be used many times
  • 10 degree tapered reamer is a universal tool,Tapered Reamer Tie Rod For 2inch Per Foot,tapered designed for proper fitting of ball joints to spindles, tie rod ends to spindles,tapered holes to hold tie rod ends
  • Tapered reamer, 2inch per foot taper (10 degree)
The picture looks the same as the ream from Speedway.
I'm not getting the difference between the reamers.

Like Marty, I would thing a 10° reamer would be a 10 degree reamer.

Is the 1.5" per foot part of the description, just a mistake?
 
I thinks it’s 2” per ft gets you 10 degree, while 1.5” per ft gets you 7 degree.
I still cant understand why it would be labeled a 10* reamer if it is actually a 7* reamer. 🤷😹
I just dont get it. 10* should be 10* no matter the distance.
A mountain grade sign says the highway is at a 7% grade, it dont say 7% in 250 feets, its 7% the entire length except a short stretch at various places.
 
Back
Top