Matt Bachand
Depends on the 6.5
Sure is true on all aspects there buddy.
Perhaps all the Stanadyne bashing isn't necessary, and we should be thankful.
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Gettin' the mods in 'er done!
- Thread starter BigArt
- Start date
Sure is true on all aspects there buddy.
Perhaps all the Stanadyne bashing isn't necessary, and we should be thankful.
Brooklyn Tow
9 11 Never Forget
I was reffering to the timing chain, I didn't realize your chain was only 1 year old.....only reason I brought it up was because, when I first got my truck, HO pump, fan and clutch were the first/only mod I did....and when I reported my results, I was asked how my timing chain set looked, (GMCTD) and if I replaced it?......Well, needless to say I blew right passed it, not even giving it a thought......That's when JD gave me the "Long in the tooth" lesson (Gear teeth) and pointed out that the chain was streched and my timing/performance was not up to spec. So when I hear water pump...... I equate that with timing set/chain and/or gears. (As already covered by TD)
Lesson learned!
Just figured I'd throw it out there, but it seems you've already covered that.
Good Luck and Enjoy!
SmithvilleD
Active Member
The gear drives have a little bit of advance built into the crank gear - relative to the chain drive. They're certainly not a necessity. I went w/ the gear drive mostly because I think it eliminates any question of cam timing, for the life of the engine.
My farm background drove home the cost benefits of keeping & running equipment for as long as you can reasonably maintain it to be reliable & serviceable. I feel lucky that I enjoy this kind of work. Not every hobby can actually save $.
Couple years ago I rebuilt the simple 14hp flathead Kohler in an Ariens garden tractor my family bought in '77. It ran fine with no significant repairs for 30 years. The drivetrain, frame, & hydraulics were built better than anything new I can find for less than $8k. Rebuilding it cost maybe $100 & a bit of time. Easy $ to justify as it remains far more reliable than my neighbor's consumer grade Deere mower.
Don't get me wrong - Deere, Kubota, etc., build some excellent quality if you're willing to pay for it. Still, with newer technology/complexity, it's very hard to imagine them performing as absolutely trouble-free as the Ariens did for 30 years into the future.
Couldn't even resist modding the garden tractor a bit. Milled the flat head a bit to bump compression & did some obvious/easy port smoothing. Improved power quite noticeably, but now prefers the higher octane pump gas during the peak summer temps.
My farm background drove home the cost benefits of keeping & running equipment for as long as you can reasonably maintain it to be reliable & serviceable. I feel lucky that I enjoy this kind of work. Not every hobby can actually save $.
Couple years ago I rebuilt the simple 14hp flathead Kohler in an Ariens garden tractor my family bought in '77. It ran fine with no significant repairs for 30 years. The drivetrain, frame, & hydraulics were built better than anything new I can find for less than $8k. Rebuilding it cost maybe $100 & a bit of time. Easy $ to justify as it remains far more reliable than my neighbor's consumer grade Deere mower.
Don't get me wrong - Deere, Kubota, etc., build some excellent quality if you're willing to pay for it. Still, with newer technology/complexity, it's very hard to imagine them performing as absolutely trouble-free as the Ariens did for 30 years into the future.
Couldn't even resist modding the garden tractor a bit. Milled the flat head a bit to bump compression & did some obvious/easy port smoothing. Improved power quite noticeably, but now prefers the higher octane pump gas during the peak summer temps.
BigArt
In for the long haul
Hi idle and TCC mods done
Thanks to the members here and to their how-tos, I did these mods. Because I had nothing better to do (although the wife had other ideas) I got them done yesterday. Fairly easy mods, but time consuming with cutting the holes, installing the switches, pulling the PCM and doing the wiring. I had to make myself some wiring diagrams, which took me 3 tries to get it right. I'll post my very simple wiring diagram if anyone wants to see. You can use whatever color of wires you wish, I just used what I had on hand.
I ordered the pins from GM a few days ago, although I only needed one for A6, I got a spare just in case. They were cheap. The local Piston Ring store had the switches. I wanted the switches to look factory. I'll post a pic. It looks good and both mods work just fine. For connectors behind the switches I used trailer wiring harnesses.
Now if I can figure out a way to label them and keep it looking somewhat stock. that would be great. Anyone have any ideas?
Art
Thanks to the members here and to their how-tos, I did these mods. Because I had nothing better to do (although the wife had other ideas) I got them done yesterday. Fairly easy mods, but time consuming with cutting the holes, installing the switches, pulling the PCM and doing the wiring. I had to make myself some wiring diagrams, which took me 3 tries to get it right. I'll post my very simple wiring diagram if anyone wants to see. You can use whatever color of wires you wish, I just used what I had on hand.
I ordered the pins from GM a few days ago, although I only needed one for A6, I got a spare just in case. They were cheap. The local Piston Ring store had the switches. I wanted the switches to look factory. I'll post a pic. It looks good and both mods work just fine. For connectors behind the switches I used trailer wiring harnesses.
Now if I can figure out a way to label them and keep it looking somewhat stock. that would be great. Anyone have any ideas?
Art
Attachments
SmithvilleD
Active Member
Looks good. I also wanted my added switches & gauges to look consistent.
Even bought a couple extra of the same switches & installed them to the left of the steering wheel on the flat part of the dash surround - for future use.
Your post reminded me about the labeling. I've got one of those brother P-touch electronic label makers for use around the house/shop. Have used it to label any wiring I add to the system which speeds recognition of what's what in the future.
The label tape I have prints black so it wouldn't look right on the dash. I'll check at the office supply store & see if there is any clear label tape that prints white & would look similar to the OEM switch label printing
Even bought a couple extra of the same switches & installed them to the left of the steering wheel on the flat part of the dash surround - for future use.
Your post reminded me about the labeling. I've got one of those brother P-touch electronic label makers for use around the house/shop. Have used it to label any wiring I add to the system which speeds recognition of what's what in the future.
The label tape I have prints black so it wouldn't look right on the dash. I'll check at the office supply store & see if there is any clear label tape that prints white & would look similar to the OEM switch label printing
Attachments
midniteplowboyy
Recruit
Looks factory, good job.
Matt Bachand
Depends on the 6.5
Very nice looking. Lets get a zoom out view on your dash to see what the painted look looks like please?
BigArt
In for the long haul
Pretty much done for now...
Got the Heath EXTRA Heavy-Duty Cooling System Upgrade done last week. Pulled the grille and rad. Cleaned the piss out of rad and the other coolers. Took 3 cans of scrubbing bubbles until I was satisified. I couldn't believe the crud/crap that came out. Lots of fins on the rad to straighten out as well. It took me about 3 days total but I took my time and wasn't in a hurry. I'm not as young as I used to be and feel it some days. I was most nervous about R&Ring the water pump. But that went just fine. Had that sinking feeling a couple of days later when I saw coolant on the ground under the truck. But that turned out to be just a hose clamp. Whew! Had to phone Heath a couple of times for some quick advice and they were very accomodating.
All I can say now is she runs like a champ, and I won't be afraid to pull that big old trailer anywhere anymore.
But that ATT is now making my mouth water.....
Cheers,
Art
Got the Heath EXTRA Heavy-Duty Cooling System Upgrade done last week. Pulled the grille and rad. Cleaned the piss out of rad and the other coolers. Took 3 cans of scrubbing bubbles until I was satisified. I couldn't believe the crud/crap that came out. Lots of fins on the rad to straighten out as well. It took me about 3 days total but I took my time and wasn't in a hurry. I'm not as young as I used to be and feel it some days. I was most nervous about R&Ring the water pump. But that went just fine. Had that sinking feeling a couple of days later when I saw coolant on the ground under the truck. But that turned out to be just a hose clamp. Whew! Had to phone Heath a couple of times for some quick advice and they were very accomodating.
All I can say now is she runs like a champ, and I won't be afraid to pull that big old trailer anywhere anymore.
But that ATT is now making my mouth water.....
Cheers,
Art
Matt Bachand
Depends on the 6.5
No problems taking that radiator out due to your in the salted areas?
Slim Shady
DEATH BEFORE DISHONOR
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Big Art when you get ready for your ATT turbo let me know. I think you will be pleasantly surprised at how much it will enhance your trucks towing capability.
BigArt
In for the long haul
Matt: We don't use as much salt around here as you may think. Salt loses it's effectiveness when it's really cold. And it is really cold here much of the winter. Mostly we use sand. Not to say we don't use any, but... Everything came apart with no problem. The amount of leaves, dead bugs, dirt, small stones, etc., mixed with oil and the like, in the rad cradle area must have been about a half inch deep in spots. Not to mention the crud in the rad.
Slim: I'm going to have to take a breather, probably over the summer, then try to convince the wife. Got any idea how to go about that? :rolleyes5: Last time I was at your web site it said "sold out"....
Art
Slim: I'm going to have to take a breather, probably over the summer, then try to convince the wife. Got any idea how to go about that? :rolleyes5: Last time I was at your web site it said "sold out"....
Art
BigArt
In for the long haul
A few quick questions now?
As I said, all the planned mods (for now) are done. We went for our first little trip pulling the Dutchmen (~8000#) last week. No problems pulling whatsoever. We live in pretty much a "flat land" here, but with some smaller hills. I have been keeping track of my fuel/mileage, but haven't figured it out yet. I can post that later. I'll have to convert litres to US gals, and KM to miles for you Yanks out there :rolleyes5:. And for me too, as far as that goes, I can't think in those kind of metric terms either. (L/100KM etc.
)
Outside temps about 75-80F, travelling in cruise at 65 MPH in OD, the boost guage hovered between 10-11 and climbing some of these hills the boost guage topped out at about 14. (GLE chip) Is that too much? Should I turn it down a bit?
EGT temps hovered around 700F at 65 MPH and climbed to 900F (just entering the yellow on the guage) on the hills. I would expect I would have to slow down considerably when we travel through the rockies. But I don't foresee a problem.
GLE/cruise/OD Trans temp max was about 160F. Can someone tell me what the MAX transmission temp is? There is no mark on the guage for a idiot like me, and nothing in the instructions.
I have read here that many of you tow in OD. And I did, this time. I have never in the past, however. There is a factory sticker on my driver's door that says "NEVER TOW IN OD". Or something to that intent. Are we sure it is safe to do so? I can see a big MPG saving if it is.
All for now.
Cheers,
Art
As I said, all the planned mods (for now) are done. We went for our first little trip pulling the Dutchmen (~8000#) last week. No problems pulling whatsoever. We live in pretty much a "flat land" here, but with some smaller hills. I have been keeping track of my fuel/mileage, but haven't figured it out yet. I can post that later. I'll have to convert litres to US gals, and KM to miles for you Yanks out there :rolleyes5:. And for me too, as far as that goes, I can't think in those kind of metric terms either. (L/100KM etc.
)Outside temps about 75-80F, travelling in cruise at 65 MPH in OD, the boost guage hovered between 10-11 and climbing some of these hills the boost guage topped out at about 14. (GLE chip) Is that too much? Should I turn it down a bit?
EGT temps hovered around 700F at 65 MPH and climbed to 900F (just entering the yellow on the guage) on the hills. I would expect I would have to slow down considerably when we travel through the rockies. But I don't foresee a problem.
GLE/cruise/OD Trans temp max was about 160F. Can someone tell me what the MAX transmission temp is? There is no mark on the guage for a idiot like me, and nothing in the instructions.
I have read here that many of you tow in OD. And I did, this time. I have never in the past, however. There is a factory sticker on my driver's door that says "NEVER TOW IN OD". Or something to that intent. Are we sure it is safe to do so? I can see a big MPG saving if it is.
All for now.
Cheers,
Art
mfgguru
Makin' it better!
Sounds good Art! I do believe that you don't want your trans temp to ever go above 200 F or the oil begins to break down and burn, losing it's ability to lubricate. I have posted the towing in OD concern before, and the concensus is if it's holding OD, leave it, if not, drop it down to D.
BigArt
In for the long haul
RE: towing in OD
Thanks Mike. It took a bit of searching, but I found your thread. Here it is as a reminder to whoever may wish to look.
http://www.dieseltowingresource.com/showthread.php?t=8494&highlight=towing
I feel more comfortable about towing in OD now. :thumbsup:
Thanks,
Art
Thanks Mike. It took a bit of searching, but I found your thread. Here it is as a reminder to whoever may wish to look.
http://www.dieseltowingresource.com/showthread.php?t=8494&highlight=towing
I feel more comfortable about towing in OD now. :thumbsup:
Thanks,
Art