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FTB

I don't know for sure but think it might cause some issues with high input pressure say over 8 psi??? High supply pressure can raise housing pressure which has some function to control timing or something or other. Improved flow and regulating input pressure steady with more than 1-2 psi and less than 8 psi no matter the fuel rate is still mildly beneficial. As with the DS pump zero and negative pressure will not allow full potential performance.

From reading I think the DS max suggested input pressure is ~ 15 psi. Not sure of the DB pumps max but thought it was optimal at 4-6 psi supply pressure.
 
some of the ford guys were using a boost referenced regulator so they could increase fuel pressure at full load and not mess up the timing at part throttle
 
FTB wont increase fuel pressure, only volume. So you can do it and it will still maintain the same fuel pressure running your FRB-5. The problem though is that the pump using a flared steel line and nut, same as a brakeline, that screws into the pump. Looks like it is 3/16" (could be wrong?). Some vehicles run a 1/4" line and has a flare nut that is the same size as a 3/16" nut but has the larger inner diameter to fit the 1/4" line. Might find one at a parts store, but I think they can be hard to come by. When doing brake lines with those nuts, I usually try to re use the nut bc we can never get the right nut from a parts store. Or if you can't find one and don't mind a little more work, you might try drilling out the 3/16" fitting to fit a 1/4" line in it. But I would say 1/4" is probably the largest you could go with it. Same with at the filter housing. You can take the fitting out (its pressed in and will pull out with a pair of channel locks) and then drill and tap it to accept a 1/4" fitting. To do the metal line, you can either buy a 1/4" brake line already flared and cut it down to size, or if you have a flaring tool and already have 1/4" brake line with no flared ends, you can make it yourself. Then get some hose clamps and a 1/4" fuel hose and you're set.
 
Oh, and I would put a small flare on the fuel hose side too to help hold the hose on and keep it from blowing off. Would probably be fine without it with the low fuel pressure, but better safe than sorry.
 
In my case i used hose barb push on connectors for everything but i had to adapt to the stock hardline fitting. I was not able to find the right one at several stores so i cut the female side off an old fuel pump tapped for the barb fitting and run a short hose to the input of my Raptor/PWM install,,, link provided.
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?40149-Raptor-Install
I also removed the spring in the fuel heater column of the FM.
My FTB setup is posted here from before doing the pump modification.
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?39187-Thanks-FTB-guys!!&p=445911#post445911
 
I took the back cone off the IP and had a buddy of mine who is good with machining drill it out and tap it to 1/4 pipe thread. I have a brass fitting that I thread in with a barbed end so I can run 3/8 hose. My pump does leak some, although I don't think its from this modification.
 
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