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First four injectors in - questions

SnowDrift

Ultra Conservative. ULTRA!
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I kind of forgot my post from Saturday, but I'll try to recap. I got the four injectors in on the passenger side and now have the turbo cleaned up and set back in place. Nothing is tightened down on the turbo, but it's not sitting on the bench anymore. In doing all this, I'm wanting to replace the connector hose on the oil return tube from the turbo, but can't see how to get these apart. 1) Can the upper tube be removed without removing the exhaust manifold? 2) If not, then can it be removed without removing the lower portion that bolts to the block? I didn't have a gasket for the lower portion, so I didn't want to take it off.

Anyhow, the heat shields are shined up - apparently, they're aluminized and they shine up nicely. I'm putting never-seize on about everything.

Oh, the other thing I wanted to ask about was about the fuel return lines. I'm not really crazy about the no clamps, but I left clamps off, except for the one at the end with the cap and also the one at the front that plugs into the steel line, since it's not barbed. Does this sound right?
 
I kind of forgot my post from Saturday, but I'll try to recap. I got the four injectors in on the passenger side and now have the turbo cleaned up and set back in place. Nothing is tightened down on the turbo, but it's not sitting on the bench anymore. In doing all this, I'm wanting to replace the connector hose on the oil return tube from the turbo, but can't see how to get these apart. 1) Can the upper tube be removed without removing the exhaust manifold? 2) If not, then can it be removed without removing the lower portion that bolts to the block? I didn't have a gasket for the lower portion, so I didn't want to take it off.

Anyhow, the heat shields are shined up - apparently, they're aluminized and they shine up nicely. I'm putting never-seize on about everything.

Oh, the other thing I wanted to ask about was about the fuel return lines. I'm not really crazy about the no clamps, but I left clamps off, except for the one at the end with the cap and also the one at the front that plugs into the steel line, since it's not barbed. Does this sound right?

I know that there is just barely enough room to weasel the drainback pipe up far enough to get the coupler hose in there, but you will literally have to mash the new hose to get it to fit, -and that's not cool. I'd seriously consider removing the fuel-pump adapter plate to get the room you need. I wouldn't worry about a gasket, -just use good RTV like that Permatex "the right stuff" -it won't leak.

Disconnecting the pipe from the turbo cartridge will allow you to pull it up a bit, -but it will still be trapped by the exh manifold, -so it won't pull up very far.

I'd personally pull the fuel-pump plate to do it, then RTV the thing back on.

My .02
 
Oh, the other thing I wanted to ask about was about the fuel return lines. I'm not really crazy about the no clamps, but I left clamps off, except for the one at the end with the cap and also the one at the front that plugs into the steel line, since it's not barbed. Does this sound right?

That is how mine is. No issues.
 
x3... I tried to answer you three times, snowdrift... every time I tried, the forum died again, so I finally gave up.

Glad you got 'er done!

The oil return line on your turbo just slips through there... mine wasn't even done up (which explains the mystery oil leak). When I lifted the turbo off, the darn thing fell on the ground. Ever try to find 4" of hose at midnight?

Anyway, I just put mine back together once I scavenged a hose, and it's been fine ever since.

Oh, I lied... almost fine almost ever since.

When you put it back together, don't forget to scrape clean and install a new gsket on that oil-return flange.

Don't ask me how I know that...
 
...When you put it back together, don't forget to scrape clean and install a new gsket on that oil-return flange.

Don't ask me how I know that...

:iamwithstupid::yesnod:
Don't ask me how I know that either...

Tearing the turbo out again after oil dribbles all over under the truck is the penalty for forgetting to replace that stupid little gasket.
 
Here's another one.

I unbolted the turbo to pull the GPs to do a compression test a while back. I didn't disconnect the oil feed line. I just sat the turbo over onto the intake, out of the way. After testing all 8 cylinders, I had black oil all over the place before I realized my dumb mistake. That won't happen again.

Oh, and by the way I used the oxy/acc torch to vey carefully heat the turbo nuts red hot and they came right off. I used high heat anti sieze (the copper colored stuff) on re-assembly. Seems to have worked as it was easier to get apart the next time.
 
Here's another one.

I unbolted the turbo to pull the GPs to do a compression test a while back. I didn't disconnect the oil feed line. I just sat the turbo over onto the intake, out of the way. After testing all 8 cylinders, I had black oil all over the place before I realized my dumb mistake. That won't happen again.

Oh, and by the way I used the oxy/acc torch to vey carefully heat the turbo nuts red hot and they came right off. I used high heat anti sieze (the copper colored stuff) on re-assembly. Seems to have worked as it was easier to get apart the next time.

Jody, -don't feel bad, I was dang near ready to do the same exact thing until a good friend of mine pointed it out. Funny how we often overlook the minor things that can get us in big trouble, eh?

I thought I was the only one to wield an oxyacetylene torch around an engine! It is amazing how much better they can work for you when you are trying to keep the heat "concentrated", -and you are trying to heat something up "quick" to make it grow, -acetylene nearly does the trick every time. I like to use the small #0, #1, and #2 welding tips, -you can really be ultra precise and not burn the vehicle to the ground.

Of course, one main advantage you have in that situation is that you're a fireman!

BTW Jody, -if you have ever run a Husky foam system on a brush truck, -I built the pump for it! All the Husky systems use an Edwards rotary gear pump (not the CAFS system though).

FYI
 
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