ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
check your air filter if it's dirty it will cause the water to rise abnormally high.
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First diesel, not my first 88-98 GM Truck...
- Thread starter great white
- Start date
great white
Well-Known Member
Nope, new....
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
sounds like cdr might be stuck open shouldn't get that much rise on the water column
great white
Well-Known Member
had a look inside it the other day, it's pretty slick with oil....dripping actually.
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
probably using some oil too
great white
Well-Known Member
Doesn't seem to....put a lot of miles on it these last two weeks too....just shy of 1400 kms (somewhere around 900 miles)....
great white
Well-Known Member
So, time for the promised write up on bulb changing in the Delco radio:
Pull the radio out of the dash (I'll assume you can already do this) and take it somewhere you can work on it:
I usually use my workbench in the garage, but the wife wasn't home so I did it in front of the 42" plasma screen.......:thumbsup:
Pull the "knobs" off the front of the radio to expose the nut under the volume:
Remove the nut.
Remove the top (or bottom, depending on how you look at it):
There's 4 screws you need to remove. If the panel just pulls off or you don't see what's pictured above, you have the wrong "top".
Now you need to disconnect the green wire connectors for the red and white wire bundles to the face plate:
The connectors are like most computer connectors, you need to gently pry up each edge to get them to release. DO NOT PULL BY THE WIRES:
Remove the face plate by GENTLY prying up the tabs and pulling the face forward. Only pry up the tabs enoguh to barely clear the slots they are engaged in. Go too far and they will snap off and your face plate will be loose at best or it will fall off at worst:
Remove the shield with the foam rubber backing. You need this off to get to the 2.5 MM screw underneath unless you have a 2.5mm nut driver (I don't):
It just pulls off with some effort. You may end up deforming it a bit. No worries, it bends right back with a little bit of effort. If you have a very thin bladed tool (DO NOT USE A SHARP BLADE!) you can use it to "fool" the small hooks (they are punched in the sheet metal) loose that hold it in place as you pull.
Remove the screws that hold the printed circuit board on to the plastic face:
Once they're all out, the printed circuit board will lift free. Flip it over and you'll see the offending bulbs:
Use your soldering iron to melt the solder holding them in. I heat the legs and "walk" the bulb out, a little bit on each leg at a time.
Then, use a solder sucker, solder wick or blow air through the holes to remove the remaining solder while it's still melted. Be very careful if you us air because that damn solder burns!
Grab your 12v - 50 ma minibulbs and open up the packages.
Now, simply solder the new lights you picked up at radio shack or an online source in the circuit board. Once they're soldered in, clip the extra length off the bulb "legs". Don't worry about the little black cup on the original bulbs, you don't need them.
Finally, assemble the radio in reverse order you took it apart. Note: be very careful NOT to touch the display glass or the inside of the blue shield/window in the face palate or you'll be taking it apart again to clean that greasy thumb print you just made. Trust me, it'll drive you nuts! Aslo, guard against bits of lint, dirt or dust getting in there or you'll be taking it apart to clean it again....
Welcome to being able to see your radio buttons in the dark again....:thumbsup:
Pull the radio out of the dash (I'll assume you can already do this) and take it somewhere you can work on it:
I usually use my workbench in the garage, but the wife wasn't home so I did it in front of the 42" plasma screen.......:thumbsup:
Pull the "knobs" off the front of the radio to expose the nut under the volume:
Remove the nut.
Remove the top (or bottom, depending on how you look at it):
There's 4 screws you need to remove. If the panel just pulls off or you don't see what's pictured above, you have the wrong "top".
Now you need to disconnect the green wire connectors for the red and white wire bundles to the face plate:
The connectors are like most computer connectors, you need to gently pry up each edge to get them to release. DO NOT PULL BY THE WIRES:
Remove the face plate by GENTLY prying up the tabs and pulling the face forward. Only pry up the tabs enoguh to barely clear the slots they are engaged in. Go too far and they will snap off and your face plate will be loose at best or it will fall off at worst:
Remove the shield with the foam rubber backing. You need this off to get to the 2.5 MM screw underneath unless you have a 2.5mm nut driver (I don't):
It just pulls off with some effort. You may end up deforming it a bit. No worries, it bends right back with a little bit of effort. If you have a very thin bladed tool (DO NOT USE A SHARP BLADE!) you can use it to "fool" the small hooks (they are punched in the sheet metal) loose that hold it in place as you pull.
Remove the screws that hold the printed circuit board on to the plastic face:
Once they're all out, the printed circuit board will lift free. Flip it over and you'll see the offending bulbs:
Use your soldering iron to melt the solder holding them in. I heat the legs and "walk" the bulb out, a little bit on each leg at a time.
Then, use a solder sucker, solder wick or blow air through the holes to remove the remaining solder while it's still melted. Be very careful if you us air because that damn solder burns!
Grab your 12v - 50 ma minibulbs and open up the packages.
Now, simply solder the new lights you picked up at radio shack or an online source in the circuit board. Once they're soldered in, clip the extra length off the bulb "legs". Don't worry about the little black cup on the original bulbs, you don't need them.
Finally, assemble the radio in reverse order you took it apart. Note: be very careful NOT to touch the display glass or the inside of the blue shield/window in the face palate or you'll be taking it apart again to clean that greasy thumb print you just made. Trust me, it'll drive you nuts! Aslo, guard against bits of lint, dirt or dust getting in there or you'll be taking it apart to clean it again....
Welcome to being able to see your radio buttons in the dark again....:thumbsup:
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
nice write up!!
great white
Well-Known Member
Little bit of work done today:
Pulled the passenger side inner and outer ties rods and replaced them along with the adjuster sleeve.
Replaced the original OEM passenger side shock for a Monroe Gas magnum HD shock.
Tomorrow evening, I'll do the same on the driver side.
Then off to the alignment rack on Friday morning....
Pulled the passenger side inner and outer ties rods and replaced them along with the adjuster sleeve.
Replaced the original OEM passenger side shock for a Monroe Gas magnum HD shock.
Tomorrow evening, I'll do the same on the driver side.
Then off to the alignment rack on Friday morning....
great white
Well-Known Member
Just found out today, my truck has the full floating 10.5 inch rear axle.
625fireman
I have injecter-itis
Wow a go getter. Welcome to the best place on the web.
great white
Well-Known Member
yup, running out of scratch to spend on it for now though....:rolleyes5:
great white
Well-Known Member
Replaced the front and rear shocks with some Monroe Gas Magnums yesterday. It still had the originals (400,000 kms!) on the rear.
Needless to say, both front and rear shocks were pretty "flat".
I also got the chance to swap on my new pitman arm. Whoever designed the front steering gear on these truck should be shot.....):h
Needless to say, both front and rear shocks were pretty "flat".
I also got the chance to swap on my new pitman arm. Whoever designed the front steering gear on these truck should be shot.....):h
625fireman
I have injecter-itis
Maybe better Idea: make them work on them forever!!!!!!!!!!
