Exhaust manifold studs

[pipelinetrash89]

Ok guys, I was changing out my rotted out crossover for a new one and I broke all three manifold studs on the drivers side :mad2: Anybody have a good way of getting the old one out? I'm not sure if and easy out will work, maybe just grit my teeth and start drilling them out and re-tapping them?

 

[Big T]

Been there. Very tough to accurately drill them out with the manifold in place. Best to remove the manifold and then go at it. If you do it in place, plan on using a through bolt and nut.

 

[WarWagon]

X2 on just drill them and use a stainless bolt and nut to replace them. I wouldn't remove the manifold as you can break more bolts...

 

[pipelinetrash89]

Well they old man I bought it from said it had a leak on that side and he told me he replaced the studs with bolts and impacted them in. I asked if he had changed the donut gasket and he had no clue what I was talking about :rolleyes5:

 

[jmiller]

When I snapped all 6 of mine the first time, I removed the manifolds. Several snapped at the head and left a nice stub to get vise grips on. Lots of heat and back and forth to remove them.

The others I had to drill out to the threads. Then ran a tap to chase the threads clean. I was slightly off center on one, but there was still plenty of thread for the new studs.

On drilling, take at least 3 or 4 swipes at it. Start with 1/8" and work your way up in size.


I used the standard exhaust stud set from NAPA, with the brass nuts and lots of anti seize. Using the stud prevent further damage to the manifold threads. I also double nut the exposed stud to keep the length of stud covered to prevent rust. That allows me to remove it with out much risk of snapping things or needing any heat.

Good luck

 

[SmithvilleD]

x2 on the use of torch heat to break loose the corrosion before drilling. If they're broken down into the hole, I use a transfer punch when possible for the best chance of getting a centered punch mark to start drilling.

I also like to use a regular stud (for strength, as A2 stainless is notably weaker than a common steel stud), & a regular stainless nut. That way the nut won't corrode to the stud & it's also less likely to gall than an A2 stainless bolt & nut. Many/most exhaust nuts are designed with some degree of interference like a lock nut. Good for keeping the exh fasteners tight, but adding difficulty to get them loose. I sometimes use a 2nd stainless nut as a jamnut for the same effect.