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dtc 39 and stalling

That wiring is often damaged during repetitious (sometimes careless) fuel filter r&r -

I have noticed that pretty much everything under the hood that is made of plastic is extremely brittle. There is a plastic shield over the whole firewall, and every time I even touch it, pieces break off it.
 
The engine harnesses are all silicone-thermal insulation - cannot even brown the insulation with a hot soldering iron - best bet is to hit yer local boneyard and snag sections of the oem harness for any modifications\additions\upgrades within the engine bay - resin-core solder is required, plus a bare crimp (insulation removed): crimp the splice, then solder it - coat the finished splice with a dab of RTV, slide the shrink tube over the freshly RTV'ed splice, hit it with the heatgun, and you gotta waterproof\fuel-proof\antifreeze-proof splice, soldered for good electronic connection, crimped for good mechanical connection

I cut the copper splice in half, strip the wire lengths short to fit the half-splice section, making the resulting splice shorter - works well in a large harness where multiple wires require splicing, allowing the splices to be at various positions along the length so the resulting harness is nearly as compact as the un-spliced harness
 
I cut the copper splice in half

I LOVE IT... Another approach is to take a lug type terminal that fits both wires and just cut the lug off. And, like the man said, get rid of the insulation. A bare connector will give you a much better crimp.

I won't comment on the soldering part - Well, just a little... I'm against it. If you don't really know how to solder you will be introducing a weak point to your wire. If you really do know how to solder (you know who you are) then have at it if it makes you happy.

BTW - I really know how to solder (my profession) and just don't use the stuff on wire splices period.
Well - Previous profession --- Retired now - And loving it! I can't figure out how I ever found the time to go to work ;-)
 
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