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Diodes...

Unit453

Cruises comfortably at 140...
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I'm looking for some help from someone who knows enough about diodes to chime in here. I'm working on the all on headlight mod to the SS. It is possible but it has not yet been done yet. I need a diode long enough or help with a heat wrapped pre prepped diode.

I bought a couple 4004 type diodes but they're too short. I'm looking for something that can handle enough juice to prevent them from getting hot after extended periods of use. I don't think my diodes in my truck ever had a problem but you never know.

Anyone know the wattage difference between 4001, 4002, 4003 and 4004s?
 
Hello Chief,
If you're talking about connecting a diode from the high beam relay pin #87 (high-beam "hot" wire) to the low-beam relay's pin #85 (coil energizing wire), you'll just need to solder an 18 ga. length of wire to make up the distance you need. The thin band on the diode indicates the "go" flow of current, i.e., current will flow in the direction of the band. In your case, the band should be to the low-beam relay pin #85. Wiring it this way will only flow a 1/4 amp of current through the diode. The 1N4004 can handle 1.0 amp.
Regards, Franko
 
Fog-Driving Lights Wiring.jpg

You're welcome.

The above illustration is of typical wiring for a set of auxiliary fog/driving lights.

For your purposes, your low beams are wired as one circuit as in the diagram, and your high beams are wired as a separate circuit as in the diagram.

Connect a diode to flow from high beam "pin 87" to low beam "pin 85." Some like to make a connection between high beam "pin 85" to low beam "pin 85" which will also work (but I do not like "tampering" with control currents too much).

I've attached a .pdf of multiple wiring diagrams using the Bosch-type relays (e.g., alternate flashing headlights, alarms, etc.). If you're curious, the other .jpg shows the innards of a Bosch-type relay.

Franko
 

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  • Bosch Relay_Wiring.pdf
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  • Bosch Relay Innards.jpg
    Bosch Relay Innards.jpg
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Be aware that putting voltage on the low beam relay coil (from the high beam control wire) will set a body code for headlamp malfunction. The computer sees voltage on the low beam circuit and sets a code as there should not be voltage there... Harmless code.

The best place to locate this diode will be the connector at the BCM, Body Control Module. You can do this by, not unplugging the connector, but taking the connector apart so the wire retainer comes off. Then you put the diode in and put the wire retainer back on. The wire retainer, plastic, holds the diode to the headlight relay control wires. No cutting/soldering etc. Pull diode out if warranty needs arise... Refrence Trailblazer SS where the BCM is under the back seat - UNK where yours is located - you need to look up the pin outs to do this on the BCM.
 
I took the pins out of the low beam circuit and it's identical to what was used in all my trucks. The only difference is that the fog lights, in my case, DRL's, is only a 10 amp fuse.

I tired to fish around and my diodes aren't long enough to really test this. The DRL bulbs (H14 - I think) are tiny and really don't put out much light at all. I would just like to be able to use them in inclimate weather, or maybe just run a separate switch.

Here's a shitty picture of the fuse box and how they should be wired, as copied from another forum.
 

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  • fuse wired.jpg
    fuse wired.jpg
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Here ya go:

1n4001_112599100001.gif
 
You dont have time to build me two do you that are long enough? I don't have any of the tooling required.
 
You don't even really NEED to Solder them. It's not like you're gonna be Swinging from a Tree with them.

Strip some Wire, Wrap it around the Leads on the Diode, either Electrical Tape or Heat Shrink it, and you're done.
 
Diode install at Body Control Module. No mods to Diode required. conn.JPGdiode.JPG
 
You don't even really NEED to Solder them. It's not like you're gonna be Swinging from a Tree with them.

Strip some Wire, Wrap it around the Leads on the Diode, either Electrical Tape or Heat Shrink it, and you're done.

I cannot sleep comfortably unless I try all electrical connections with the Swinging test detailed above... :)
 
soldered mine and wrapped in electrical tape (I didn't have shrink stuff at the time) 5 years later still working perfectly.

5113.jpg
 
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