• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Devil's own Water injection install.

great white

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,007
Reaction score
110
Location
Canada's Ocean Playground
It's been slow going, but I've finally progressed enough to post up a few pics and start a thread.

It's not done yet, but I'm at about the 75% point.

It's going to run straight water for EGT control only. 21:1 compression and methanol injection isn't that great a mix......

It's a simple system, just one 10gph nozzel and a Progressive Controller run off boost reference.

Lets play "spot the nozzle"!

(please excuse the engine bay being a mess, we're on water restrictions right now)

Here?

DSC04185.jpg


How about here?

DSC04183.jpg


Don't see it yet? An easier angle maybe?

DSC04184.jpg


OK, now you have to see it:

DSC04186.jpg


Just the way I like it; Nice and clean, and you need to look closely to tell anything has been done from factory......

Pump is tucked away all nice and snug in the frame rail, safe from rocks and other nasty debris (and prying eyes):

DSC04180.jpg


I only had to drill one hole. I was able to reuse two factory holes already there. There's only three holding the pump on, but I couldn't bring myself to drill another. The pump is solid, doesn't move at all when turned on. The rubber isolators do their job well and everything is stable and quiet.

Uh oh, waitaminute....that's right next to the exhaust pipe. A heat shield is definitely in order:

DSC04181.jpg


That's better.

No, your eyes aren't fooling you. That's the case from an old ECM. I've got lots of 7477 parts left over from my OBDI/TBI days (I mess with 7427's for OBDI and mostly OBDII 411's now). An old case makes a nice little shield.

I originally wanted to install my controller on the back of the lower console:

DSC04159.jpg


But it's not visible or adjustable from the drivers seat when the seat is slid forward in the driving position.

So, a change in plans is in order:

DSC04168.jpg


I lost one mounting space for an Auber gauge, but gained more functional use of the DO controller. I still have room for fuel pressure, trans temp and oil temp. I didn't know what I was going to use the 4th guage for anyways....

I've got the buck made for the fiberglass water tank.

Side with drop sump:

DSC04125.jpg


Back side:

DSC04126.jpg


bottom:

DSC04129.jpg


I had planned to make the tank using a "lost foam" core, but the complexity of the area means a cardboard mock up is a better choice. I'll just Tuck tape it all, lay up over it and then pull the cardboard and tape off the fiberglass through the upper access hole you can see in the current form. Not the most "elegant" way to do it, but it works just fine for this type of application (IE: "rough" finish is fine)

I was going to install a slosh baffle in the tank, but the shape and nature of the sump itself is going to do the job. The water feed, feed filter, sump drain and level sensor will be located in the sump.

Believe it or not, that tank works out to 6 USG.

My chosen location is on the passenger side, under the bed and forward of the rear wheel. It needs to be shaped the way it is to fit in around the bed and cab mounts as well as the front spring hanger. The shallow depth (except for the sump) is necessitated by the amount of space I have to work with at the bottom of the bed side to actually get the tank in and out without bending the bed side or removing braces, tires, etc. It slips in on its side between the frame and bed side, then pivots to point the sump straight down next to the frame.

While 6 gal is good, I want more. I'll be looking to locate another tank of approx 4 gals somewhere else under the bed and tie the two together with balance pipes.

Still haven't worked out where the filler cap will be located.

Next up is to run the wiring and lay-up the water tank. I also need to order a bit more tubing as the run from the nozzle to pump used up al the tubing I had. Still need a couple feet to go from the tank (which is mounted higher than the pump) to the pump.

Getting SOoooooo close......

:)
 
"so-called summer"? It's always summer out there...

LOL. Where BJ's at, things stay pretty stable... West Coast Pacific Rainforest (moderated climate).

Now, "so-called winter" I would agree with!

The best place to ski is at Mt Washington... PILES of snow, when it gets down to -10, all the pansies go home because it's too cold and you get the whole mountain all to yourself!
 
As you can tell, i have not gone far from home. lol. South a couple times, but never north.. Stupid passport stuff.. Just wondering how much of a possibility this is for me in my climate. 100 on hot summer days, and -20 coldest winter..
 
Your temps are closer to mine than his...

Water injection is really not workable in the winter without adding a lot of methanol to prevent freeze-up and protect the system from expansion issues. Fortunately, in the winter, cooling isn't that big of a deal (you have cold air working for you).

The only downside to water injection is maintenance... keep filing it up, keep it operating properly, etc. Intercoolers are no-maintenance and accomplish the same thing. They cost around the same, you lose a little ground clearance (with a hanging ATA), and you have another cooler to keep clean.

Some benefits, some liabilities, like most everything else. You choose the option that best fits your needs.
 
Will keep an eye out on this project! I was worried about freeze ups, hassles of the system, but i hear excellent results of one.
 
You bet! Water injection (if installed and controlled properly - and you can bet BJ will do that) is great stuff... just empty and blow it all out in the winder, and the freeze-ups aren't a problem. Don't need it then, anyway.

And you can always add some methanol for a little extra kick!
 
Somehow, the thread didn't auto subscribe...

Jim:
21 meters of snow on mt washington so far this year. You could say there's a decent base up there right now!

D-slug:

For freezing, I'll just be draining the lines. Camping will be over by that tile anyways and the truck won't be hauling anything besides my fat butt.

;)

You can always add a bit of meth for kick (like nitrous for diesels) but it's generally accepted that it's not a great idea on our 21:1 engines.

And just like too much nitrous on a gasser, too much meth on a diesel makes things like connecting rods go on walkabout....
 
Tank all 'glassed in and kicking off nicely:

DSC04188.jpg


You can see the steel reinforcing bar in the 'glass and if you look closely, the metal plate embedded in the 'glass in teh very bottom of the sump kick out. This last piece of steel was added so I'd have something to thead the drain cock and supply line fittings into.

It's double layers of 'Glass at the thinnest parts and about a gallon of resin in it so far.

I'll let it fully heat overnight and pull the cardboard form out in the morning.

Then start on the fittings and balance piping.

Coming along nicely....:)
 
Good stuff. After seeing your posts about the water injection for EGT control, I'm debating on it myself instead of an intercooler. Time will tell, I don't know how my truck reacts to towing in anything above 40 outside quite yet.

If I were to run Meth in mine, I'm lucky, the 99 has 19.5:1 compression
 
Good stuff. After seeing your posts about the water injection for EGT control, I'm debating on it myself instead of an intercooler. Time will tell, I don't know how my truck reacts to towing in anything above 40 outside quite yet.

If I were to run Meth in mine, I'm lucky, the 99 has 19.5:1 compression

I still wouldn't use meth......

Each method of cooling egt's has it's ups and downs.

Water:

Up - progressive, effective, instant, only there when you need it, can be boost or EGT referenced, can be adjusted up or down easily, system is "tunable" with pumps/controllers/nozzles, can add meth to mix for a bit more power, reportedly "steam cleans" the intact tract and cylinders, reduces NOX output, potentially a small increase in MPG, easy to install compared to an intercooler.

Down- need to keep refilling it, if it runs out you're left without additional cooling you might be counting on, needs to be drained in winter (of course, egt's are as low as water can make them in low ambient temps), too much water can lead to flame front "quench", raises HC and CO output, too much meth and things go BOOM!

Intercooler:

Up - set it and forget it, no way for it to damage engine.

Down - Packaging and piping is a PITA, always on even in winter, collects blowby oil, if mounted low vulnerable to road debris, if mounted in front of rad blocks cooling air, pressure drop if inefficient core, can be "laggy" if not designed properly, "you get what you get"/can't be turned up or down.
 
Last edited:
Pulled the cardboard form out a few minutes ago.

Came out with a bit of a fight because of the internal shape, my hands and arms are scuffed and bleeding from various little nicks and cuts.

Quick run over with a palm sander and some 80 grit cleaned up the little bits of left over resin and exposed any weak areas at the seams.

Measured out the final volume (the ol' bucket method!), right between 30-33 liters (8-8.5 gallons).

A very decent size for towing!

Got a few pin hole leaks at a seam or two. No big and easily repaired by a simple reinforcing strip, which I had planned to do anyways. I have more fiberglassing to do anyways ( cap, fittings and tubing).

Once it's all done, I'll rock guard the whole tank. More for looks than protection. Fiberglass doesn't rust and there's going to be a "flap" between the tank and the wheel well.

Looks like I'm on schedule to mount it under the bed this weekend.

:)
 
I think water has more advantages than an intercooler, not the exact same thing, but same primary purpose. the trade offs were listed pretty well where GW mentioned the ups/downs
 
Leak check.....

DSC04193.jpg


Passed!

:)

Measured out at 32 liters total.

Takes 25 mins for it to drain through the hose fitting

I'll carry a 6 gallon jug in the bed during the cross continent road trip for "emergency fills" if I run out before I find access to a hose.

The sump holds 3 liters and the level sensor will be positioned to let me know when I get into it. The sensor with fire off an LED I have in my custom dash warning panel.
 
Last edited:
Not exactly my usual "aircraft quality" work, but it's pretty much done and will work fine for under the bed of my truck:

DSC04209.jpg


DSC04210.jpg


DSC04211.jpg


DSC04213.jpg


DSC04214.jpg


Next up is to hang it, make a custom fill tube (already underway!) and finish up the wiring.

Then it's good to go!

:)
 
How deep is it from the lid to the sump and is it a straight shot from top to bottom? I ask because I might could make a water sending unit WSU that is compatible with your fuel gauge. You could flip a switch and the water level would read on the fuel gauge. Maybe you would not want it set up that way because its not passive like just having another gauge would be.

On our WVO systems it works great that way though because when you switch over to diesel or WVO you are reading on one gauge the fuel that is presently being burned.
 
Back
Top