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Clutch master cylinder

nick94

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Location
Austin Texas
Can someone tell me the difference between the 1994 and 1996 clutch master cylinder. I am installing a 1996 NV4500 with internal slave clutch bearing. The 1994 was external. I guess what I am asking can I still use the 1994 withy the internal slave cylinder?
 
what is the plan? newer trans in older truck? you will have to switch bellhousings as well.

as far as MC compatibility, I have no idea.
 
The bellhousing, input shaft housing, hose from master cylinder are all different between the two. I am not sure if the master is or not.
 
I did this once. I did not change the master cylinder. But it seems I had to do something different with the line. The line was damaged so I had to do something with it anyway. It had a compression fitting repair on it.

What was the purpose or gain by switching from the external slave cylinder to the internal slave?

I've always preferred the external. I've always wondered why they changed it.

For some reason I was thinking you could use the 1994 bell housing and external slave cylinder with the 1996 transmission. Please advise as to whether that is correct.
 
Chevy clutch master cylinders are a pain to bleed. It is easiest to bleed them off the truck.

I did a chevy S-10 a year or so ago. I purchased a cheap air compressor bleeder from harbor freight that made life easy. I never fully bleed it properly and just got it to were I was able to drive it. After a few weeks it started working properly.
 
what is the plan? newer trans in older truck? you will have to switch bellhousings as well.

as far as MC compatibility, I have no idea.

IDK why I said this, it is eluding to the bellhousings are interchangeable, which is wrong.

I did this once. I did not change the master cylinder. But it seems I had to do something different with the line. The line was damaged so I had to do something with it anyway. It had a compression fitting repair on it.

What was the purpose or gain by switching from the external slave cylinder to the internal slave?

I've always preferred the external. I've always wondered why they changed it.

For some reason I was thinking you could use the 1994 bell housing and external slave cylinder with the 1996 transmission. Please advise as to whether that is correct.


The bellhousing to transmission bolt pattern changed for the 96 model year, so 92-95 had the chevy only bolt pattern, but 96+ chevy had the same pattern as dodge. I have seen pics online of someone re-drilling their bellhousing, but IMO its easier to just use what the trans. comes with. I am with Jeff, I personally like the 92-95 bellhousing and slave cyl the best.
 
I knew that. It's on one of my threads. Must have killed that brain cell a while ago.

IDK why I said this, it is eluding to the bellhousings are interchangeable, which is wrong.




The bellhousing to transmission bolt pattern changed for the 96 model year, so 92-95 had the chevy only bolt pattern, but 96+ chevy had the same pattern as dodge. I have seen pics online of someone re-drilling their bellhousing, but IMO its easier to just use what the trans. comes with. I am with Jeff, I personally like the 92-95 bellhousing and slave cyl the best.
 
I am with Jeff, I personally like the 92-95 bellhousing and slave cyl the best.


Cheaper and easier to repair if the slave goes bad. Not sure why they changed, maybe less things exposed to the elements? Better clutch release? That's all I can come up with, can't be price!
 
Just to add on to this thread....

I would like to install the NV4500 that has been sitting on my garage floor for over a year. Truck is a '94 auto, tranny is from a '98. I don't have a bell housing yet. Should I buy the later model bellhousing with internal slave and the later model clutch master? Can the earlier clutch master be used with the later model internal slave? It seems that the early master would bolt right on my firewall, the later model might take more fab work, correct? Not sure how they mount up.

I do have pedals, switches, etc already.
 
never having done one, I cannot say, but all the mounting sure looks the same on all my various 5 speed rigs, so I would vote to get the complete setup for the 98 trans.

Personally, I would keep trolling Craigslist and junkyards and try to find a 92-95 trans, but I am un-reasonably anal when it come to period correct components. :)
 
I have to agree with GM Guy. I did a manual swap into my 93 Chevy dually. Spent about 20-25hrs just on the trans swap. I put in a manual steering colum, put the blank gear selector in the cluster. Put the clutch pedal in and manual trans brake pedal. I also pulled the carpet up and cut the hole in the floor. The truck looks stock as if it came from the factory this way. I can't stand making a nice truck look like it was half done. With some automatic stuff left.

As far as the bell housing. You can go either way. Go to car-part.com to find a good grade A used bell housing for a 94 or you can buy a new 96-98 bell housing from rock auto for about $200. If you have a 98 transmission and want a external slave you will have to get the 94 bearing housing for the throw out bearing to slide on.

One more food for thought. I took everything out of a 94 I had. But it was put into a 93 so my truck doesn't miss the automatic transmission. With a 94 you check engine light will most likely be on all the time. I do have the computer from my 94 still if you need one. You may also be able to get your old computer reflashed.

Good luck if you have any questions I'll help where I can.
 
I need to troll some JYs to see how the clutch masters bolt up between the early and late model GMT400s.

I specifically bought a later model transmission as it will bolt up to a Cummins bell if/when I ever get to that swap. Good point on using the early bearing retainer for the external slave. I don't think the early bearing retainer works on the later transmissions. I'll probably just go with everything that matches the tranny, i.e. bell, master, slave, etc. I have the tranny on my bench right now waiting for a rebuild kit to get here. The truck will look factory when i'm done, I hate seeing the wrong column, cluster when guys swap to a hand shaker too. I know someone who can flash one of my chips for the stick too, but thanks for the offer.
 
Also one thing I forgot that I ran into, is the front drive shaft is shorter on the manual transmission and the rear drive shaft is longer. I had a local truck shop extend my rear drive shaft and the front one I had from my donor truck.

If you pull back the insulation on the fire wall the marking are there for the holes, for the master cylinder. Also the same with the shifter hole on the floor. It is marked from the factory. Just pull the carpet up and you can see it.

The earlier model clutch master is held in by two bold from the clutch pedal assemble. The later model is held in by twisting it into place on the fire wall.
 
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