1994ch
Well-Known Member
When backing up to a trailer at night or any other time you need to see what is in the back from the cab having the interior lights on with the cargo light is totally useless. So rather than having to pull the inside light bulb I decided to make the cargo light switch indipendent.
I took the cab light off and used a tester to find the ground wire for the cargo lights. The four wires are: orange, white, yellow, and black. WHITE is the ground. I simply cut this and soddered it to the cab.
I did this on my OBD I truck but I think that it will be the same for OBD II as well.
I started out assumming that GM ran the ground wire for the lights straight to the ground. In my personal opinion the ground is the ground (period). Put all your switches and gismos on the hot side. PLEASE
So I spent a lot of time making the hot side independent. Which I belive was unessesary, but, it is just like medicine, if you did do it you don't know how you would be if you had not.
Just in case I thought I'd go ahead and tell everything else I did as well.
The harness from THE light comes up under the carpet with three other harnesses: somthing, the power seat (I assume), and the rear speekers (ex cab). An orange wire splits off by its self so I interupted its journey and ran a wire straight to the switch. For the hot side of the switch I taped into the hot for the radio. To do this I took the hood popper thingy, and the curt. light off for room and turned the fuse box around (after disconecting the batterys to prevent fireworks. I then removed the clip for the fuse and soddered another wire for the switch. I think all this was not needed. When I did this and tryed it out it worked just like normal EXCEPT the clock came on with the switch :nono:
One photo shows the wire tapped into the fuse box. The next shows the other wire, in the back ground you can see the wireing harnesses coming up from under the carpet, the last shows the modifide ground.
I took the cab light off and used a tester to find the ground wire for the cargo lights. The four wires are: orange, white, yellow, and black. WHITE is the ground. I simply cut this and soddered it to the cab.
I did this on my OBD I truck but I think that it will be the same for OBD II as well.
I started out assumming that GM ran the ground wire for the lights straight to the ground. In my personal opinion the ground is the ground (period). Put all your switches and gismos on the hot side. PLEASE
So I spent a lot of time making the hot side independent. Which I belive was unessesary, but, it is just like medicine, if you did do it you don't know how you would be if you had not.
Just in case I thought I'd go ahead and tell everything else I did as well.
The harness from THE light comes up under the carpet with three other harnesses: somthing, the power seat (I assume), and the rear speekers (ex cab). An orange wire splits off by its self so I interupted its journey and ran a wire straight to the switch. For the hot side of the switch I taped into the hot for the radio. To do this I took the hood popper thingy, and the curt. light off for room and turned the fuse box around (after disconecting the batterys to prevent fireworks. I then removed the clip for the fuse and soddered another wire for the switch. I think all this was not needed. When I did this and tryed it out it worked just like normal EXCEPT the clock came on with the switch :nono:
One photo shows the wire tapped into the fuse box. The next shows the other wire, in the back ground you can see the wireing harnesses coming up from under the carpet, the last shows the modifide ground.
