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Build your own WMI

chrisk1500

chrisk1500

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This thread will cover my homebuilt WMI setup for those interested in following along/building their own.

The WMI system will consist of a pump, reservoir, lines, solenoids, and switches. I will cover each piece, tell you where I got it and how much I spent on it....

The first thing on my list is a good pump. After doing some research, it seems as though the ShurFlo 8030-813-239 pump is the one to get. It is made for the agriculture industry. Specs are as follows: 1.5 GPM open flow, Viton® valves, Santoprene® diaphragm, 150 PSI Demand Switch, 3/8" NPT-Female ports.

I will be shopping around Saskatoon tomorrow to see if I can get one at one of my local Ag suppliers for a reasonable price.....

Stay tuned.....
 
Chris -

By using a demand flow pump, I presume that you are going to have it build its 150 PSI against a solenoid actuated shutoff valve? What about any leakage past the shut off...?

Or are you going to switch power to the demand flow pump and size your nozzle(s) to prevent ever reaching the 150PSI mark while injecting?

Inquiring minds want to know...:banana: (sorry, just always wanted to use that icon)

Regards,
 
Gonna look into NOS solenoids....those should work right?

Pump has 12v on switch, NOS solenoids activated using Hobbs switch.....
 
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The nozzle that you place into the intake is not going to create enough of a restriction that would make the WMI inject any substantial amount of coolant after the pump itself is shut off. I am pretty sure you will be fine with simply turning the pump on and off. If the intention of the nitrous solenoid is for a second stage of coolant injection then it makes sense.

A bosch style relay used to supply the power to the pump, tripped by the hobbs switch should be all that is needed for electronics. That is how the simple single stage systems work.

The more advanced systems use a solenoid system that you guys are thinking of. All they do extra is modulate the solenoid to open more at higher boost levels to deliver more coolant. They are often triggered by a small processor.

A simpler approach would be to do a two stage setup. The first stage coming on with a single nozzle and the pump operation. The second stage coming on at a higher boost level with the nitrous solenoid and a second nozzle. The two stages of the system would be activated with two separate hobbs switches, set at different boost levels. Maybe that is what you had in mind? There would be several different ways of accomplishing a multiple stage system.

Also you should add a small check valve to your shopping list, used so the boost will not force air bubbles into the tube and resevoir when the pump is not on. The nozzles themselves will not work as a check valve. Of course a nitrous solenoid will if that is how it all ends up being plumbed.
 
Jason - the reason I was looking into NOS solenoids was to have the flow shut off instantly. From what I have read, the ShurFlo pumps have a tendency to continue to run for a few seconds after power has been cut off to them. The solenoid would prevent the meth from entering the engine once the boost drops off.....a safety device for peace of mind I suppose....
 
Might have to order the pump online...couldn't find that exact model on any store shelves....
 
Chris -

You mentioned that the pump has a demand switch. Does it also have a "normal" 12V on/off position? If not, have you worked with a demand switch pump previously? They will shut off when they reach their preset pressure (such as 150 psi in this case). You have to bleed the down stream pressure off, by opening a valve or whatnot, to get the pump to switch on with a demand switch.

So unless there is a bypass (somehow) for the demand switch, you will need to keep your injection system pressure considerably below 150psi to maintain injection while needed. I would suggest using relatively small nozzles that would provide good atomization at approximately 130 to 140 PSI and then increase the number of nozzles to provide the amount of water needed. You could run two (or three) small nozzles on a first stage and a couple more on a second stage.

Regards,
 
Chris -

Demand switch means that it only turns on the pump when it "sees" less than 150 PSI downstream (on other words your "demanding" flow). Otherwise, it sits with 150 psi of head pressure against whatever shutoff you use in your system. The benefit is that you always have pressure to atomize properly, even right after you turn it on.

I have a 75psi demand switch pump on my lawn sprayer (80" width) and it is a shurflo pump. If you power it down completely, I assume that it would eventually bleed off pressure back through the pump.

Read here for clarification of how these things work. Look about half-way down on the page under "Pressure Switch Operation".

Hope this clears things up. If you re-read my first post you will see some ideas on how to work around (or with) this demand-type pump...

Regards,
 
Gave up on the Shurflo model I have listed...

I went to coolingmist.com and purchased their pump. It is most likely the same model as the Shurflo pump I was looking for but with different seals to better handle the alcohol.


Information from their site:

"Features


150 psi max pressure from the FACTORY
Black color for a much nicer look and stealth.
Stronger Materials to handle higher pressure compared to the normal pump
Designed to work with a Variable Controller or with just a boost switch to operate.
Improved Internal Design
EPDM Seals, 100% methanol compatible"

Cool150Pumpimage3.jpg
 
I have the pump on its way up here from the states.

I paid $81 for it on Ebay sold by coolingmist....now to find some fittings and piping at the local Home Depot...

Recommendations on nozzle sizing?
 
Also, ideas on nozzle placement in the intake?

Tap into the upper and spray downwards or tap into the side of the lower and spray towards the EGR tower? Or tap into the IC piping running into the intake?
 
chrisk1500 said:
Also, ideas on nozzle placement in the intake?

Tap into the upper and spray downwards or tap into the side of the lower and spray towards the EGR tower? Or tap into the IC piping running into the intake?
Click to expand...

I like the idea of spraying from the sides toward the center...:banana: (sorry, just like that one...)

Regards,
 
Anyone running a WMI right now know the lb/hr of their nozzles? Meth concentration?
 
I read a lot about it and I wouldnt get anything over 300CC/min, the smaller the better atomization. And I think Ian Carver had issues running anything over 20% methanol. I will eventually get my system in, I bought a lot of the parts, and I want to have it in by July, but mainly just for water, not concerned about adding alcohol.
 
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