Brake Pull

[mangus580]

Ok guys, here is the deal.

Last monday, the front brakes in our Burb went metal to metal.

Tuesday morning, I got up and went to work on them. The passenger side needed a new rotor, (and wheel bearing) Drivers side was in need of just pads. After much running around, I managed to get a new bearing with the ABS sensor... since I damaged the original.

After putting it all together, it drives nice and straight, bearing noise is gone (YAY) and stops real good.

My problem is, on heavy braking, it pulls hard to the drivers side. On really light braking at real slow speeds (stopping in the driveway for example) the ABS activates.

Any ideas? Only thing I can come up with, is the drivers rotor should be replaced too.

 

[just a number]

did you check the caliper sliders to make sure they're not sticking? check the calipers to make sure there not sticking too.(piston in bore) as for the abs, the only thing I can thinks of, is the connector might be dirty giving it a false reading at slow speeds.

 

[mangus580]

did you check the caliper sliders to make sure they're not sticking? check the calipers to make sure there not sticking too.(piston in bore) as for the abs, the only thing I can thinks of, is the connector might be dirty giving it a false reading at slow speeds.

Wouldnt anything with the caliper sticking cause it to pull the opposite way when the brakes are not being applied?


I somehow wonder if my issues are related...

 

[DEERE3594]

I always replace them in pairs so I would do that so they both have the same wear and are the same age. And like Dan said check your slides

 

[Z79outlaw]

Just tossing this out there but i had the same problem with my 98 I've never found out what caused it for sure, but have done research on it, what problem you may have is you need to bleed your brakes properly, you can change your own brakes so I'm assuming you know how to bleed brakes, but from what I can find is a small amount of air also gets trapped in the ABS proportionary valve and unless you bleed your brakes with a tech 2 to open up the valves in the ABS assembly to get all the air out of the system completely you may not get rid of your brake pull. But as I said I cannot verify this, but I've already scrapped the ABS system and soon just plan to re-plumb the brakes to eliminate the entire ABS proportionary valve.

 

[just a number]

the caliper can stick part way. it may not be coming out as far/hard as the other side. air is a nasty enemy of the system. been there done that.:sad: but the sliders are the first thing to check. and make sure the bolt are torqued to spec. That can cause some binding issues

 

[mangus580]

Interesting thought Nick.... but oddly I never opened the system, so how could any air get in it?

 

[mangus580]

and make sure the bolt are torqued to spec. That can cause some binding issues

What is the torque spec?

 

[just a number]

how did you get the piston to go back in? IIRC the ABS doesn't like to be pushed backwards

 

[Z79outlaw]

Interesting thought Nick.... but oddly I never opened the system, so how could any air get in it?

I had air get into my brake system if you didnt I would concentrate of chasing down other problems.

 

[mangus580]

how did you get the piston to go back in? IIRC the ABS doesn't like to be pushed backwards

Slow & easy with a C clamp...

maybe thats part of my issue? (first ABS brake job I have done)

 

[just a number]

up to 98 it's 38ft/lbs. don't know about 99

 

[just a number]

did you check for any codes?

 

[mangus580]

I suspect its the same as the 98 (being the same body style)

havent checked for codes yet... my brother hasnt given me my cable back :-(

 

[just a number]

time to get after him. LOL do the basic checks, the little things can cause some odd results.