I'll serve as a bad example of using biodiesel. Stuff is like brake fluid for attracting water. Second you get bugs in the stuff it is game over. Run a good biocide like Bioclean from powerservice. Bio must be in the name otherwise it is the usual additive. Bugs appear to make their own water from fuel breakdown and a couple new fuel tanks later, several lift pumps and now an IP, likely injectors shortly on my 6.5's. All from wet bio I got. You want a biocide that works in the fuel rather than falls to the bottom water layer in the tank as bio holds enough water for the bugs to grow in the fuel not just at the bottom of the tank water layer like #2.
Just make sure you are saving enough to replace the entire injection system from the fuel cap to the complete engine. Then it is worth the risk. Also you loose 10% of your power and MPG goes down 10% on B99 vs straight #2 due to less BTU's etc. Also change your engine oil more often.
Any DPF system that uses post injection is NOT compatible with any Biodiesel. (Even 5% max is horse s#it.) Bio winds up in your engine oil from the post injection DPF cleaning. (Post injection is an injection even during the exhaust stroke where the diesel does not ignite but burns in the cat to heat the DPF red hot and burn it clean.) The DPF cleaning will take longer or may not complete. It does not evaporate like diesel and runs down the cylinder walls on post injection. Oil analysis will not show fuel in oil but will notice the viscosity thinning out. #2 will boil out of the oil but Biodiesel will not. Your oil level rising will also clue you in. DPF with dedicated exhaust injectors should be fine although some bio still gets in your oil from normal engine operation for all years.