Any thing to watchout for?

[Farmdog]

I'm hoping to look at an '03 reg cab sometime this week. Anything in particular to watch out for in this year of the 5.9 engine or tranny wise? The truck has 70k on it and I'm planning on it being my daily driver/farm truck.

 

[SfcJones]

If it has an auto tranny, I heard they are junk, the stick shift seems to do good.

 

[Farmdog]

Aren't they all junk compared to the Allison?

 

[treegump]

Now, I had a 2nd gen and not a 3rd - which is what you're looking at, but the more I dug into the tranny issue, the more I was told that it was not the tranny but the torque converter and valve body. I had my truck for almost 2 yrs and put ~80k miles or something like that on it - and never really had that big of an issue with the tranny. Grant it - I did not have a lot of additional power - just a superchips that I left on perf. tow (additional 30-40 hp...maybe...) but when I was pulling/carrying a heavy load I did feel the torque converter slip - usually in 4 wheel drive - but 4 low was INCREDIBLE!!.

Also - I thought the 24 vlv was just from 99.5 to 02, but, ya know, I've been doing so much digging trying to research the 6.5L that I'm forgetting alot of the random info that I learned about the dodge. I do know that the steering is always a concern. If I were you, I'd check the front end and see if they've done any rebuilding. If they've already replaced parts with rebuildable parts, and everything looks nice and clean and tight - I'd say give it a shot. But I put ~$5k in the front end trying to get rid of loose steering between 80k-140k miles and I still had too loose of steering for my comfort. I may have had a bad "new" steering gear box, and I'm proactive on repairs when I can be - so I may have been nit-picky.

Sorry for being so long - but the biggest complaint among dodge owners seemed to be the front end, followed closely by the tranny/torque converter/vlv body, followed by the fuel pump/injection pump. Look for upgrades, performance hardware, and repairs is about as much as I can offer.

 

[Cumminalong]

Aren't they all junk compared to the Allison?

:smilielol5:

Awwwww, here we go.

Wanna put that Allison behind mine and see what happens to it? You'll find 2 extra gears worth of carnage laying on the ground.

Don't get me wrong, the Allison is a GREAT transmission in stock form, but it's not as stout in built applications.

Anyways.....

Like has been mentioned, the biggest problem you'll have is the TC. BUT, on a stock truck, it's just fine. Start adding more than 40 HP over stock and the TC starts to slip and heat up. Replace the TC and VB and you'll be MUCH happier with how the truck performs.

As for the steering. The Dodge suffers from the same thing that most solid front axle trucks suffer from...vague feel and flex on the steering box. Add a steering box brace and it feels like a race car. People can't believe the difference going from their trucks and driving mine with the brace in it.

Don't sweat the injection pump. The VP44 was a problem on the 98.5 - 02 trucks. You're looking at an '03, so you have the Cp3 which is MUCH more reliable.

 

[treegump]

:smilielol5:

Awwwww, here we go.

Wanna put that Allison behind mine and see what happens to it? You'll find 2 extra gears worth of carnage laying on the ground.

Don't get me wrong, the Allison is a GREAT transmission in stock form, but it's not as stout in built applications.

Anyways.....

Like has been mentioned, the biggest problem you'll have is the TC. BUT, on a stock truck, it's just fine. Start adding more than 40 HP over stock and the TC starts to slip and heat up. Replace the TC and VB and you'll be MUCH happier with how the truck performs.

As for the steering. The Dodge suffers from the same thing that most solid front axle trucks suffer from...vague feel and flex on the steering box. Add a steering box brace and it feels like a race car. People can't believe the difference going from their trucks and driving mine with the brace in it.

Don't sweat the injection pump. The VP44 was a problem on the 98.5 - 02 trucks. You're looking at an '03, so you have the Cp3 which is MUCH more reliable.

I've heard the same about the allison. Only it was from a duramax owner - he was saying that if he was going to put a chip in the duramax, that he'd have to take the allison into get rebuilt or built-up b4 too long.

Good to know about the Cp3-thanks for correcting me!

Anyhow - for my old truck - the dodge, I used 2 systems found here to improve/beef the steering - http://www.dtprofab.com/DT_DODGE 1.htm . The DTProfab Trac Bar Kit has a rebuildable kit for only 45 or 60 bucks (and that's vs other systems or replacing the stock bar every 15-30k miles.) I also gave in and bought the steering brace/stabilizer kit. And before any of that was bought I purchased a fass fuel system with the fuel filter/air separator.

Also - if you do the wheel bearings - if you can afford it - take it to a shop (I honestly don't think its worth the time and trouble trying to do it yourself - unless you know a trick that I didn't). And do the ball joints immediately following the new wheel bearings. Take a torch and burn a hole into the ball joints to remove them, and freeze the new ones overnight so they slide in easier. The wheel bearings are a pain in the butt - so if you plan on keeping the dodge for a long time I'd recommend opening up the knuckle hole a little bit OR sanding down the outter part of the wheel bearing AND applying anti-seaze to the wheel bearing AND the knuckle hole when putting back together - otherwise its a pressfit. (This is unless the 03 is THAT much different than the 01).

Please correct me if I'm wrong somewhere cumminalong or someone else...

 

[Cumminalong]

Actually the wheel bearings are very easy, as long as you're not up north and they're corroded in. If that's the case, what you want to do is spray the bearing area with PB Blaster for a few days prior. Then when you're ready to take them out (you're gonna love this), you use the power steering to push them out.

What you need is a 2x4 piece of square steel stock. Loosen the 4 bolts that hold the bearing to the hub until there are 3 to 4 treads left in. Place the piece of steel between the bolt and the axle tube yokes, start the truck and turn the wheel......OUT COMES THE HUB / BEARING.

Now, the ball joints are a friggin joy....... :mad2:

You NEED a ball joint press and an impact gun. You can rent the ball joint press at AutoZone. If you don't have an impact gun to use on the press, you're in for a fight. As long as you have an impact gun, they're relatvely easy.

Press 'em out, press 'em in.....DONE! :thumbsup:

Before you put the ball joints or bearings in, coat the bores with anti-seize and the next time you have to do it, it's MUCH easier.

 

[treegump]

Actually the wheel bearings are very easy, as long as you're not up north and they're corroded in. If that's the case, what you want to do is spray the bearing area with PB Blaster for a few days prior. Then when you're ready to take them out (you're gonna love this), you use the power steering to push them out.

What you need is a 2x4 piece of square steel stock. Loosen the 4 bolts that hold the bearing to the hub until there are 3 to 4 treads left in. Place the piece of steel between the bolt and the axle tube yokes, start the truck and turn the wheel......OUT COMES THE HUB / BEARING.

Now, the ball joints are a friggin joy....... :mad2:

You NEED a ball joint press and an impact gun. You can rent the ball joint press at AutoZone. If you don't have an impact gun to use on the press, you're in for a fight. As long as you have an impact gun, they're relatvely easy.

Press 'em out, press 'em in.....DONE! :thumbsup:

Before you put the ball joints or bearings in, coat the bores with anti-seize and the next time you have to do it, it's MUCH easier.

you make it sounds so easy! I tried the power steering trick, and the pb trick, and the torch/grinder/air chisel/5 lb sledge/10 lb sledge/crowbar/breaker bar and a couple combinations of the above mentioned trying to the passenger side out and I still couldn't get it out. Had to take it in.

As far as the ball joints - we applied so much pressure we bent the harbor freight ball joint press w/ 2 guys putting pressure on the end of a 3' breaker bar. Needless to say we took a torch and cut a hole in those puppies and then popped them out.

 

[Cumminalong]

you make it sounds so easy! I tried the power steering trick, and the pb trick, and the torch/grinder/air chisel/5 lb sledge/10 lb sledge/crowbar/breaker bar and a couple combinations of the above mentioned trying to the passenger side out and I still couldn't get it out. Had to take it in.

As far as the ball joints - we applied so much pressure we bent the harbor freight ball joint press w/ 2 guys putting pressure on the end of a 3' breaker bar. Needless to say we took a torch and cut a hole in those puppies and then popped them out.

I can so see you doing this right now....... :mad2:

):h

That's the problem with the ball joints if you don't use an impact gun on the press. The impact gun takes all that load off and doesn't break the tool.

Here's my DIY for doing your ball joints and wheel bearings.......

Below is how to do the ball joints and wheel bearing / hub assembly on a 3rd Gen 2500 or 3500 SRW.

Word of caution.....this IS a labor intensive process. It can easily be done in the driveway, but plan on a weekend if you're by yourself.

Also, you MUST have a ball joint press for this job. Without it, you WILL NOT be able to remove the ball joints. I must say thanks to Tom (Kilch123) for sending me (overnight) his ball joint press. :up:

Please remember to use jack stands it you are under the truck. DO NOT rely solely on your hydraulic jack to support the vehicle.

Here is the removal portion. The installation portion will be in the next post.

Here is everything you are going to need for the job.....

 

[Cumminalong]

Now for the re-assembly.....

Small typo here. The lug nuts are 155 lb/ft, not 1505...... :doh:

 

[treegump]

we did have a ball joint remover and an impact gun. The gun didn't have enough torque so we turned to brute strength and leverage. Then we cheated with the torch and sledge.

 

[Cumminalong]

Then we cheated with the torch and sledge.

Weeeeeeeeell..................that's how things get bent, muscles!

):h

 

[Farmdog]

I may choose to remain blissfully ignorant about the diy stuff on this truck for a while. I drove it 165 miles home today and I must say I was pleased. It maybe isn't as snappy on the throttle as my Dmax w/ the Edge/att, but why would it be? I think I'm going to enjoy this truck.

Oh ya, and this is no knock on it, I get a kick out the way this Cummins kind of shutters and shakes to a stop when you turn it off. I have a tractor w/ an 855 in it that does the same thing.

 

[Cumminalong]

Oh ya, and this is no knock on it, I get a kick out the way this Cummins kind of shutters and shakes to a stop when you turn it off. I have a tractor w/ an 855 in it that does the same thing.

They pretty much all do that.

Shake, rattle and roll, baby!

:thumbsup:

 

[Acesneights1]

Hahaha Ball joint press..... I did many of those with a punch and a chisel. I beat the old ones out and then used a big socket that fit over the BJ and beat it in as much as I could and finished beating it in with a punch around the edge ring. I know....poor mans way but when I was 18...I was poor. I do like that press though. Thoss look like the same ball joints used for years in Ford and GM 3/4 front ends. Nice write up.

 

[treegump]

They pretty much all do that.

Shake, rattle and roll, baby!

:thumbsup:

Yea, another thing I miss about my old truck. Kind of a weird sense - I was asked several times if that was a bad thing - but as far as I know it was ok. I miss the noise of the 24 vlv, the shake when turning off, and the twist of the truck when starting. (not to mention the power - but lets not get into that, haha)