A LITTLE HELP

[carolinacountyboy]

this might sound a bit weird but how long would it take to pull and drop in a 6.5 if i had the other engine inhand? I am serious i crack the crank and geting a replacement motor for the truck as we all know i am a:dr: and could use any help i can get and some one take some bad photos of the ordeal to post on here that might be my wife but who know. thanks again Ya'll and happy holidays and i will be rebuilding the other motor in the near future

 

[just a number]

well you've come to a great place to start. give us a little info on the truck and I'm sure you'll find more than you'll ever need

 

[packratt]

I always screw up using the estimator but it looks like 15-20 hrs book time

 

[carolinacountyboy]

little info ok K2500 sub oil lines came off thanksgiving day while doing about 70 stoped the truck towed it 65 miles to dads. check oil had about 2 quarts in it replaced lines changedoil filter no metal in old one filled engine with oil. I then drove about 20 mles round trip to test it ou 3 miles from where i started lost all oil presure at guage. checked oil added about a quart looked good. drove it 3 miles home at 35 mles hour dad checeks oil sees it a bit low and adds more oil. all in all about 3 quarts over. heard a pumping sound coming from the frount of the motor. Ii have no vac pump lost in in los angeles some where. have a heath tm and a fsd on fromt skid plate. other than that stock. i talked with some people and it sounded like a crack shaft had snaped so long story short i am getting a replacement motor in the next few days to drop in the sub. And i am not the most gracefull mechanic inthe would if you catch my drift. Any one that is nio the general area that might want to help with the replacement of has in tips or tricks that would be greatly apprciate. i also am keeping the old motor to rebuild later on next year when money gets alittle better Jerry

 

[bk95td]

Hey. I didn't know there was a blown up club. Can I join? I didn't blow mine up I bought them that way. Does it still count?

 

[mitchedo]

I always screw up using the estimator but it looks like 15-20 hrs book time

I'm halfway through this process. I think 15-20 hours by someone who's pulled an engine or three sounds about right. A lot of the time would be swapping all the reusable parts over to the new engine.

It's a tight fit getting it out with the fan off; I'm going to remove my radiator when I put the engine back in.

As I recall, my engine leveler was very handy.

When I started raising the engine on mine, it pulled out the transmission dipstick tube. Ran tranny oil all over the place.

Jack the truck up to do all the underneath stuff. Then you'll have to lower it back down to get enough height with a typical cherry picker. I had to extend my cherry picker all the way out to get it to go tall enough, and then it just barely cleared the radiator support.

Air tools are your friend.

Spray the exhaust bolts with PB Blaster a day or two before.

Take lots and lots of pictures, so you can get it back together the way it came apart.

Did you get your replacement from Peninsular? They have the brand-new one with the cast-iron girdle for about the same price as a discounted regular 6.5. It has a forged crank, too. I'd be ever so careful buying rebuilt. There is a lot of junk out there.

Take the opportunity to change all the hard-to-do stuff. I'm changing the injectors, glows, all the hoses and fuel lines, the crank position sensor, Oil pressure switch, and the water pump. I got a new takeoff water pump from Peninsular for a VERY reasonable price ($65 comes to mind). I also put a Fluidampr on the front of the crank. That was a very un-reasonable price, but I thought it was worth it.

 

[Pruittx2]

The GM dealer book time is 24 hrs, on my 94 4X4 with air,, he was able to do it faster the 2nd time 1 month later, when my International Diesel reman croked!!
Look for things like exhaust bolts, to be rusted to slow you down.

 

[gmctd]

Disconnect all wiring, incl battery cables
- remove serp belt
- drain the radiator
- remove all hoses
- disconnect engine cooler hoses
- disconnect transmission cooler lines, unclip from engine oil pan
- remove shroud and radiator (I'd remove the shroud, then fan, then radiator)
- remove ac compressor bolts, lay it over in a battery tray
- remove power steering pump bolts, lay it down in frame
- remove rear driveshaft, disconnect front driveshaft at transfercase, tie it to the frame , out of the way
- remove transmission crossmember bolts so it's loose and can slide in the frame
- remove the cover, then the torque conv bolts, slide the tc back about inch
- disconnect the shift linkage to trans and xfer case
- disconnect trans cooler lines
- pull trans dipstick tube from trans, catch overflow in drain pan
- disconnect connectors
- attach chains to engine brackets, support engine
- support trans, remove bellhousing bolts
- slide crossmember\trans\xfer case assy back ~4", support front of trans so it stays in position - can use straight section of 2" exh pipe cut to length to fit in frame rails

- disconnect downpipe, tie over to frame with coat hanger wire
- disconnect starter cables
- can remove starter
- remove engine support bolts
- recheck that everything is removed\disconnected, incl battery cables at starter
- raise engine ~3" to clear motor support ears, and front differential
- slide engine forward ~3" to clear harnesses and stuff on firewall
- raise engine up, moving forward, watching not to snag anthing
- keep moving forward, keep raising enuff to clear front bulkhead
- up, over, and out, then lower the engine to the floor and yer done
- remember everything you just did, reverse it for the install
- add fluids, liquids, oils B4 starting

If, after removing the engine, you need to move the truck around while waiting for another engine, straighten a coat hanger, insert and wrap one end around the passenger-side bellhousing flange hole, run the center length under the torque convertor center hub, run the other end thru the driver's-side bellhousing flange hole, drawing the wire tight to support the tc, then wrap to secure

 

[Bullseye240]

When reinstalling the engine use a couple of inch and a half or 2 inch bollts withe the head cut off to act as guides to line up the tranny and engine. Dont be tempted to leave the torque converter attached to the flywheel as this will only risk ruining the new front seal you just installed in the tranny while you could get at it easy not to mention the really expensive front pump you could damage!!:mad2: Dont ask me how I know.:mad2: You can get a flywheel tool to turn the engine over and hold it while you loosen/tighten the flywheel bolts. A pry bar can be use but the right tool makes it easier. Also if you remove the glow plugs or as many as you can it makes it easier to turn the engine over by hand. I'd probably remove the passenger side exhaust and turbo before removall to lighten the load and keep the engine level. Dont forget the ground strap at the back of the engine, which is a great time to clean all of the grounds while it's out. It's also a great time to pressure wash or better, steam clean the engine bay.

 

[preachermic]

My last time took 12hrs in the driveway to take it out, swap external parts and put it back in with my son in law helping but, it was second time in 8 days. Use your camera to make note of where everything goes in case you forget. The second time I put all my bolts for each separate area, alternator, valve cover, motor mounts etc. in baggies and kept them with the pieces that they went with. I took three days the first time.