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93 CCLB w/plow NO OD 122k.

Matt Bachand

Matt Bachand

Depends on the 6.5
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Worcester, MA
Looked at one yesterday, guy said it had no overdrive. I wonder if its because the temp reason in the other thread?

Also it smokes raw diesel AFTER you goose the throttle on the down stroke, is this timing, or injectors? THey are defanitley originals.

Truck feels really tight otherwise, havn't test drove it yet, not sure if I have the means to purchase at the moment. But Its been sitting on the lot since winter.
 
get the codes out of it, run the "How to by a used truck/timebomb" checks (bring 3/8 clear tube and a gallon of water for "2000 rpm blowby check), test drive it and then get in your truck and think about the differences.
 
Good idea, I didn't even think about checking the codes.

I havn't testdrove it either, I noticed the 4x4 light didn't come on, but It felt like bind in 4low with the wheels cut.

I have a question about blowby checking. People say with engine warmed up, remove oil fill cap.

Well, doesn't the CDR prevent this?

When we were at Kenny's house, we pulled the CDR Tube and each different engine had different pressure/oil mist amount coming out of the tube. All with fairly new CDR's. Some would build pressure up to a hiss in about 10 seconds, others not so much.

I'm going to reread the timebomb thread :) good idea.
 
There is not enough vacuum at idle to create the negative pressure in the crankcase. And as soon as you open a hole you lose what pressure you had. every engine will have a different amount of compression lost around the rings.
 
buddy said:
There is not enough vacuum at idle to create the negative pressure in the crankcase. And as soon as you open a hole you lose what pressure you had. every engine will have a different amount of compression lost around the rings.
Click to expand...

What you are really looking for is smoke coming out of the fill tube anyhow, correct?
 
Matt Bachand said:
What you are really looking for is smoke coming out of the fill tube anyhow, correct?
Click to expand...

Quick and dirty test to identify the really bad ones yes. Tube is a accurate test though.

No OD can be a pure mechanical failure in the trans. Will pop a ratio code not sure if the SES light will be turned on. Slippage in OD or on the converter will also drop it out of OD.
 
WarWagon said:
Quick and dirty test to identify the really bad ones yes. Tube is a accurate test though.

No OD can be a pure mechanical failure in the trans. Will pop a ratio code not sure if the SES light will be turned on. Slippage in OD or on the converter will also drop it out of OD.
Click to expand...

I'm assuming mechanical failure.

Now would a blown OD have an effect on 1-3? What would cause OD to blow out? Bogging? If this trucks primary purpose is to plow, 2ndary purpose is backup 6.5/truck for me, I am fine without OD for now. I'm gonna let it sit for another month or so then show him 2k cash, only because the rest of the truck is decent, motors all rusty busty inj/gp's/manifolds etc, but the plow looks decent. However the light didn't go on on the control box and the plow is in the bed, so thats a gamble too, however it is physically there, and in good shape.
 
Mine had a bad bearing and blown sprag that chunked the OD gears up. Ran it 2 weeks with out OD. It would hit 280 on trans temps in direct/3rd while on 5 mile trips in town. We verified the aftermarket gauge was accurate. I would also suspect the radiator trans oil cooler for pinhole leaks letting water into the trans.

Not sure you could get away without a rebuild.
 
I always thought the tube was a test of the CDR function. Not Blowby.

So you slide the tube over the CDR output and 2k rpm and put in the water in look for what? Bubbles?
 
Matt Bachand said:
I always thought the tube was a test of the CDR function. Not Blowby.

So you slide the tube over the CDR output and 2k rpm and put in the water in look for what? Bubbles?
Click to expand...

http://blog.heathdiesel.com/

Start the engine. When this are working properly and there is vacuum in the crankcase, water will be pulled up into the clear tubing. Typically, at idle and with a healthy CDR, the water will rise in the tube by 1/16" to 1/2". When you rev the engine to 2000 rpm, the water will rise in the tube 1/2" to 1".

If the CDR is malfunctioning, there will be pressure in the crankcase and water will be pushed down in the tube and may even blow bubbles in more extreme cases.

If the tube blows bubbles, this is an indication of a malfunctioning CDR or excessive blow-by leakage of the cylinders. This tube and water container test, is a great pre-purchase inspection.
 
WarWagon said:
Mine had a bad bearing and blown sprag that chunked the OD gears up. Ran it 2 weeks with out OD. It would hit 280 on trans temps in direct/3rd while on 5 mile trips in town. We verified the aftermarket gauge was accurate. I would also suspect the radiator trans oil cooler for pinhole leaks letting water into the trans.

Not sure you could get away without a rebuild.
Click to expand...

That changes things. I assume he bought this at an auction. I wonder how much something like that would go for at an auction.

4x4 light don't go on, she needs work. And money. Alot of both.

It has to be worth 1500 just for the block and plow alone. Price of scrap has gone way up lately too. Maybe 2k is still worth it, but do I really want to deal with finding another 4l80 tranny... I had mine rebuilt for 2400 but it was done in 2 days and needed it ASAP. Plus this was for my main bread n butter truck (only truck :)). I have a guy who can swap tranny's cheap for me, but still have to find and buy one.

Also has that smoke issue after you let the throttle go. I've never had a DS2 before, what does that sound like to you? TIming? Injectors? Both perhaps? Shitty fuel? IP??? It passed the 2k rpm test like a champ.
 
WarWagon said:
http://blog.heathdiesel.com/

Start the engine. When this are working properly and there is vacuum in the crankcase, water will be pulled up into the clear tubing. Typically, at idle and with a healthy CDR, the water will rise in the tube by 1/16" to 1/2". When you rev the engine to 2000 rpm, the water will rise in the tube 1/2" to 1".

If the CDR is malfunctioning, there will be pressure in the crankcase and water will be pushed down in the tube and may even blow bubbles in more extreme cases.

If the tube blows bubbles, this is an indication of a malfunctioning CDR or excessive blow-by leakage of the cylinders. This tube and water container test, is a great pre-purchase inspection.
Click to expand...

Fantastic read. Thanks. I've read it before years ago, but I must have learned something new, and forgot that. :) Brain is full I think.

Thanks again.
 
Nobody gives me respect when I pull up anywhere in the wifes Hyundai.....lol

Lol the guy came out and says "What are you doing?" I said, relax dude, I know these trucks. He said I can tell, but I don't want you to break it" Then I recognized him from back in the bar days, and turns out I knew the losor from years ago. He just worked at the lot.


Even knowing him I couldn't get info out of him about how much was paid for it. He claimed he just work there, hes not the boss....

Maybe the guy will take a grand just to move it. Its been there a good 6 months. Nobody wants to deal with the old rusty tranny 6.5 diesel... Something inside me wants to though. I see the potential.

I drove by it for at least 5 months before I even stopped, so whatever he paid has to be out of his head by now. Maybe he just want it gone.
 
DB2 blowing smoke on hard accel is usually sign of bad injs or bad IP or both. That is what both my 6.2's did and both had dead IP's but the smoke was really bad. Some guys pull the top off the IP and look for coffegrind looking stuff. That is the gov gear shredded but IIRC that is on the older DB's. You could try shining a light down the pass side of the IP and see if the advance arm is moving or stuck.
 
Acesneights1 said:
DB2 blowing smoke on hard accel is usually sign of bad injs or bad IP or both. That is what both my 6.2's did and both had dead IP's but the smoke was really bad. Some guys pull the top off the IP and look for coffegrind looking stuff. That is the gov gear shredded but IIRC that is on the older DB's. You could try shining a light down the pass side of the IP and see if the advance arm is moving or stuck.
Click to expand...

Could be stuck, as the smoke only comes when the foot comes off the APP and the RPM's drop, perhaps something stuck in there..... Or maybe IP is shot.... Most people looking at this thing probably have no clue where to start, or just not worth their time or money.

BTW, this was that bone I mentioned to you before you bought the ECLB! haha... finally stopped. Its a rat for sure, but body is good and tight, engine seems tight, underneath been undercoated (fairly recently I think) so who knows whats hidden underthere.

I still think its worth 1500-2k easy though.. But is it? ... It might need 3k to get it into operating shape, then your at more than you paid for yours................Has plow though.......... I'll offer him a grand this weekend see what happens.
 
Lack of overdrive can be caused by a lack of throttle signal or bad pcm. I wouldn't condem the tranny untill everything else is ruled out.
 
Brooklyn Tow said:
Don't you lose OD when CTS is bad?.......Or is that only OBD2 ?
Click to expand...
93 is mechanical ip. No coolant temp sensor . Only inputs from the engine are throttle position and engine rpm. Loss of throttle signal results in hard shifts and no lock-up and no OD. You really need a scan tool on it to see what the pcm[computer] is seeing from the sensors.
 
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