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6.5 and waste motor oil

How long have you been running WMO in your truck? The injector pump handling it ok? I'm trying to find an engine for my 94 gmc truck I just bought. Has a blown 6.5 in it. But, I have been running a mix of 50/50 wvo/diesel in my 98 Mercedes diesel now 4 months and no issues.
 
I wouldnt do it on a truck that has a electronic ip like your 94, Cumminsfever has a mech ip swaped in.

What filtering or processing are you putting the oil through? Ive only got ~1000 gallons sitting around...
 
Mechanical injection pump, and FILTERS! Before the oil hits the truck, it goes thru 3 filters. A 33 micron, a 12 micron, and a 1 micron. Then, the truck has a big 10 micron filter. Haven't had any failures that I could say came from wmo.
 
"Mechanical IP"?? I would like to know more about this swap being that the IP is the weakest part of the system. Must be some complicated mod'ing going on in order to fool the ECU?
 
A little haze at idle, not too much. Does she still roll coal when provoked, or white or gray?

Isn't the DS4 optical sensor the only 'problem' when using alternative fuels?
 
Good post...

I 1990 7.3 with mechanical injection that I ran dam near anything through that I could get my hands on for free with very little filtering some none other then the OEM filter. I mixed it all & made dam sure there was no water.

I kept spare filters in the truck with me and changed them out quickly once the filter DP light would come on.

It can be done...

Totally agree that mechanical injection is way better suited for a home brew fuel...
 
carl6405 said:
"Mechanical IP"?? I would like to know more about this swap being that the IP is the weakest part of the system. Must be some complicated mod'ing going on in order to fool the ECU?
Click to expand...

Got the pump and lines from a mechanical 6.5, put them on my engine, welded an arm to the stock throttle pedal assembly so my trans would still work, and got a lokar 36" universal throttle cable, and that is all there is to it. No ecu fooling needed.
If you can't find the injection lines, there are adapters available that you can use your stock electronic lines. Then all you need is a mechanical pump.

16,000 miles of strait wmo and the pump is in as good of condition as when I put it on.
 
3500GMC said:
A little haze at idle, not too much. Does she still roll coal when provoked, or white or gray?

Isn't the DS4 optical sensor the only 'problem' when using alternative fuels?
Click to expand...

It didn't smoke once it got boost. Still don't... even with the excessive amounts of fuel I have. Just heat waves ROLLIN out the pipe :)
It helps to have plenty of turbo :)
 
Mine smoke a lot less on Biodiesel, B99, than they do on #2.
 
I have been meaning to ask do you switch to an aux tank for start up and shut down with WMO? Or is it just people that use veggie oil that do this due to the viscosity of the oil? I have two tanks and was thinking if I am using oil in the winter maybe I should be starting up and shutting down with diesel not WMO but I would think it depends on the oil being used, example diesel engine oil 15w-40 vs light car and truck gasser engine oil 5w-30.
 
All done from the stock tank. No heated tank. Nothing special.
never had a problem in the winter. Altho I do try to put a few gal of kerosene in each tank when it gets cold... but it isn't necessary. The 6.5 injection system seems to handle thick fuel quite well!
 
Nice!! sounds good! I am using an off board fine screen then a 6 micron, run it through there twice then to the truck with a 12 then a 2 micron. I really should find some cheap filter heads that fit the 12 and 2 micron filters I have so I can run a 12,2 and hopefully find like a 30 or 20 micron to put before them as a pre truck filter
 
It is all about the mechanical IP that that allows it to work so well. The engine will run on just about any type of oil you want to dump in there. Once I get my truck running, I am going to slowly introduce it to WVO. Can you take pics of that Mech IP set up? Which 6.5 engine has the mech IP? I thought that they all were electronically controlled..
 
I ran my 95 off of WMO (straight out of my jug, through a blue paper towel for a filter) when i ran out of fuel in the middle of nowhere. That and 2qts of 2 stroke and a bottle of power service. Ran good really, I did notice a slight haze at first then it took off and smoothed out. Drove ~25 miles to the closest town and topped off and never looked back, changed my fuel filter soon after just in case.
 
I've been running filtered (1 micron) WMO at 3:1 with #2 (3 parts #2ULSD to 1 part WMO). I sometimes even get batches with ATF and 90w mixed in, -no problem for the DB2 injection pump and pintle injectors. Idles clean, runs smoother, and is getting much better mileage (more BTU's per lb of WMO than #2ULSD). I've been using cheap 1 micron filter bags from McMaster ($4 each).

She puffs a little on a sub 40 degree morning cold start, but clears right up in less than 15 seconds, -even with the 18:1. The thing runs awesome, -great power, smoother idle, what's more to say? The beauty of a mechanical/pintle injector/IDI pre-cup engine is becoming very apparent. I may be limited on what I can make for power numbers because of the IDI/pre-cup/DB2, -but it only needs one wire to run, and it runs on stuff people are trying to throw away. If I were to have any concern, it would be carbon buildup, coked injectors, or potentially stuck rings, -but based on others' experience, that is really a long shot. Besides that, it gives me a great excuse to add water injection, -that will clean things up, and keep them clean for sure.

My OEM-style lift-pump struggles a bit from the slight increase in viscosity, but still holds 3-4 PSI at the IP pump inlet all the way up past 4000 RPM with the go-pedal mashed.

I have heard rumors from multiple sources over the years that when the military went to GM for a replacement diesel engine for the 350 gassers in the CUCV's, -some of the things they requested were multi-fuel capability (JP-4, JP-8, #1, #2, kerosene, etc.) -And that it must have the ability to start in -40°F conditions.

If that truly was the case, -all of a sudden, the pre-cup head design, mechanical DB2 IP, pintle-style injectors, and 21:1CR of the 6.2 begin to make a whole lot of sense...

It does make one wonder.
 
Yeah, -the synthetic ATF and motor oil does in fact burn (I tried a batch of slightly burnt Toyota synthetic ATF at 3:1 filtered through the 1 micron bag filter), and it ran "ok", but did not produce the BTU's that Dex/Merc or Type-F did at 3:1. I found the same thing with the synthetic motor oil, -had a small batch of Mobil-1, -same deal, -ran ok, but didn't make near the power or exhaust temps. At my "magic" 3:1 ratio with dino-junk, I'm seeing on average of a 100°F increase in EGT's over straight #2 fuel, and the turbo is in HEAVEN, -snappy response with the closed gate, -just row it through the gears at 22 psi and smile,...0-60 times are still within reason when I don't miss the shifts, -average of 11.5-12 seconds, for a reliable 6.5 in a 6400 pound "paid for" truck that gets on average of 19-20 mpg, -you won't hear me complaining any time soon. :thumbsup:

My alltime "favorite" mix is a 50/50 mix of Dex/Merc ATF and 10-40 dino at 3:1 with #2, -LOTS OF POWER, super smooth idle, free working governor in the IP, and excellent fuel economy. EGT's with this combo on average 125°F above straight #2

The injectors make a little more "clatter" at idle, -but the injection pump is super quiet, and the mechanical advance and governor are silky smooth in the DB2.

You DS-4 guys need a way to bypass the optic sensor, with the 4-plunger pump, you could potentially see a big improvement in power, -AND economy.

Awww heck, I probably don't have a clue what I'm talkin' about here.............;)
 
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