4 wheel drive rotors

[cornemuse]

Last weekend I went to bleed/change brake fluid in my '84 Blazer. "I am almost deaf, the pad 'squealers' do nothing for me". I found the pads worn to steel & the rotor wasted (driver side only, pass side pads THIN, but ok. How much hassle is it to replace the rotor? I have the shop manual & it looks like going into the hub to remove. They are Warner auto locking hubs. I have an '84 parts Blazer I bought years ago with a bad engine but good (warner hubs) rotors. I would tear into the parts car 1st to find out what I am in store for.

Anybody??
-corne-

 

[Burning oil]

IIRC rotor and hub come off then you seperate them by knocking out the studs.

 

[cornemuse]

IIRC rotor and hub come off then you seperate them by knocking out the studs.

How much hassle is it to remove the hub tho?

Ive pulled/ swapped 6.2 motors before, but I'm 67 now & I am still sore from changing the brake pads!!

( on the 'bad' rotor I put in som old used pads, in case I decide to take it to a garage.)

-corne-

 

[Burning oil]

Hub is held on by 2 nuts that are jamed against each other and has a washer sandwinched between them. The nuts take a special socket or you can use a punch and tap them off with a hammer.
Its pretty easy once you get in there, its time consuming though.
When you get rotor off see if it can be turned before buying a new one.

 

[Burning oil]

I bet there is a you tube video on it.

 

[cornemuse]

see if it can be turned before buying a new one.

Thanks for the reply, Burning oil, believe me though, the rotor is anchor material, doa

 

[Burning oil]

These might help

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rM2GPeQ4YJc&list=TL9At6u8Jw-5QfgRqXaU4ow28YODIVxdqm

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=daUFviEMdd8

 

[WarWagon]

Hub is held on by 2 nuts that are jamed against each other and has a washer sandwinched between them. The nuts take a special socket or you can use a punch and tap them off with a hammer.
Its pretty easy once you get in there, its time consuming though.
When you get rotor off see if it can be turned before buying a new one.

Steel backing of the pads have trashed the softer cast iron rotor - it will be too thin for re-use. Get new rotors. After all that work - warped or rotors with hard spots are miserable when the pedal pulses 3000 miles down the road. You will have to carefully check the used rotors before taking a chance on them.

 

[cornemuse]

On Friday I called the truck wreckers about a rotor. They sell them for 25 bucks, or 'hub&disc' for 60 bucks. I was heading over there & thought I'd check the parts store for a 'special' socket for removing/installing/torqueing the nuts down inside the hub. (I looked at them & wondered how anybody could remove & replace them with a hammer & punch) (not me,for sure!). They had one hanging on the rack for 15 bucks. I was getting in my car when I thought to ask about rotors there. They were 30 bucks and they could get them to the store within about 4 hours. Things went sooo smoooth disassembling, removing, & seperating things, I waited till (late) this morning to get the new rotor, & was finished by 2:00. If I had used that socket once & tossed it, it would have been worth it. Except for the dust & grease, it was a piece of cake operation.
Thanks for everyone sending the tips.

-corne-