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1998 GMC C3500 Gas NV4500 slave cyl. replacement questions

GM Guy

Manual Trans. 2WD Enthusiast
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Location
NW Kansas and SC Idaho
Well the slave cyl gave out on dad's 1998 GMC C3500 Chassis, 5.7L Vortec, 5spd, 2wd.

i had a few questions:


1: What special tools are needed (dad is geared up to work on the IHCs, not :Chevy_anim: no clue what is needed :hand:) we already know about the line disconnect tool, Kent Moore J 36221. Are there any others?

2: What source is reccomended for the replacement slave cyl?
GM dealer quoted about 200 bucks, GMPD is about 134 including fees.

3: can i use hydrauilc fluid instead of brake fluid? or if i can only use brake fluid, would synthetic fluid prolong life?

4: what is the best way to bleed this?


Any input greatly appreciated, thanks!
 
I'd stay with DOT3. Synthetic probably isn't any better for this area. No sense in going with DOT4 or higher either.

I have read brake fluid is hyrdroscopic sp? ( attracts water) and should be changed at 1-2 yrs. DOT 4 is higher temp but has even more affinity to water. Disc dust gets past the seals of the slave on the internal ones too so thats another reason the fluid should be changed.

To bleed
Steady normal strokes of the clutch 5 or so pumps after good firm feeling then bleed (should take 6- 10 pumps to firm up after bleeding). The first few times might take 12-18 pumps. Do this a couple of times until it feels good then rest or just drive it. It will kind of bleed itself and improve. Or you could bleed it again after a couple hours or the next day. Too much pumping froths the fluid seems like.

Have read some back fill or something but can't remember how.
 
so...there are special tools to do it? I posted a question in july of this year on DP (when I first got my truck) and someone answered...but not really. (on a side note - I'm deleting my account there...if I could figure out how).

Could regular tools be used instead of those special tools?
 
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yeah, but the specialty makes it nice... so i've heard. harvest and such has made the 98 a back burner item. we had been dealing with the clutch up until the rad. popped a leak in may or so. its been sitting since, will be torn into this winter.

the tool is the kent moore tool listed above.
 
so...there are special tools to do it? I posted a question in july of this year on DP (when I first got my truck) and someone answered...but not really. (on a side note - I'm deleting my account there...if I could figure out how).


:eek:fftopic: i know, but they dont want you to delete your account there! that is what makes them the "largest Duramax forum online!" (cue the evil laughter...)
 
I dont think any special tools are needed for the slave cylinder. provided it is the new style: iinput shaft goes thru the slave. The line quick connect works like an air line or hyd, coupling. push line in, push the collar in , while pushing collar in pull the line out. The biggest pain is you have to drop the tranny and trans case (if you have 4wd). If it is the outboard style cylinder i don't have a clue never worked on one.
 
so...there are special tools to do it? I posted a question in july of this year on DP (when I first got my truck) and someone answered...but not really. (on a side note - I'm deleting my account there...if I could figure out how).

Could regular tools be used instead of those special tools?

so...for whatever reason I thought we were talking about a brake cylinder. I need to learn to read more slowly...:mad2::mad2:
 
I know this is an old thread but I just changed mine with a few basic tools everyone should have. Just used a flat head screwdriver to press in that white plastic on the slave syl and the line popped Rite out
 
It's pretty rust free. In pretty good shape for northwest Indiana actually. The bed is comin off in a few weeks and getting the whole underside wire wheeled and herculined. And doing the rockers also. Sorry but when I get rid of a vehicle it is good for nothing else than scrap. I drive em into the grav, and I don't just go out and buy a vehicle I just wait for a good deal to come along. I only paid 600 for this truck, but there was some rear end work to get it goin. But ive also got less than 1000$ in it so far. Look at my garage pics there's one of the rear gears I'm running now. Want to get some 3.42s to fix it rite but gotta put priorities first so it'll have to wait for now. But if it dose ever go up for sale I'll let ya know
 
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