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1994 K3500 extended cab dually

My 93 has a cubby hole in that place, maybe one day I'll get around to gauges in that spot...
Mine had the factory radio controls there and an EQ/tape deck in the other spot where I have the CD player now. I had seen many people adapting cubbies and fitting 2 gauges there, but I thought I could fit 3 if I really tried. I think I had a cubby to start, but I had to cut so much of it away to fit 3 gauges that I had to just start from scratch. The construction of my pod isn’t great because I’m not very adept with plastic construction, but the finished face is pretty good. The seam on the corner is trying to come apart, so it may need some future reconstruction. If someone was good with CAD and 3D printing, that would be the perfect solution.
 
Here’s a close-up of the pod. I’m sure that upper left fit more flush before, but after reassembly things are a little misaligned. I hate taking apart interior stuff - it never goes back together the way it was before.

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This corner is the one that has started splitting.

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Here’s a close-up of the pod. I’m sure that upper left fit more flush before, but after reassembly things are a little misaligned. I hate taking apart interior stuff - it never goes back together the way it was before.

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This corner is the one that has started splitting.

View attachment 91984
Gorilla glue.
I have used that stuff on four items and when that stuff is set it is stuck.
Distructions says to hold it in place for, IIRC, twent seconts or so.
I tried that, it was going to be a lot more than twenty or thirty seconds.
I cut tape and pulled the broke components together.
Next day pulled the tape and there is no possibility of those components busting on that line again.
Dont get it on Your flingers, this stuff is ten times worser than crazee glue.
It takes a while to hold components together but only seconts to hold your flingers to the object being repaired.
 
One of the schools Toro SnoBlowers.
Needle valve was stuck.
Pulled the carb. Some one before me had busted the orfice where the primer connects to the carb. They used some kind of a black epoxy to glue it back together. That piece was hanging on the end of the hose.
After getting the carb cleaned up, did a very thorough job of cleaning the carb area and the chunk of epoxy cement. Took the carb into the office, smeared on some of that gorilla glue, to only one surface and stuck it together. A piece of tape to ensure it was being held tight to the carb body and let it set overnight.
Next morning came in to work and did some filling in the rough areas with more of that glue. At the end of the shift the glue was set and cured and that hunk of epoxy with that orfice is solidly attached.
Machine now starts and runs just fine.
I delivered it back to the school. Told the custodian to keep a check on that fitting and if it ever falls off to let me know.
Today it is snowing, maybe tomorrow he will get a chance to see if it will hold tight.
 
The only bad part of gorilla glue is it expands. I learned that the hard way one time!
My latest fix, this plug for a circular lamp bulb.
Some glue squished out but it didnt seem to expand.
I had taped it solidly together so if there was some expansion it went out the sides.
I dismantled this old lamp after testing to be sure it would still function.
Top bulb is a 3 way for different degrees of bright.
The switch is dead on one of its clicks and it is such a weird unit that there would be no way to dismantle, clean and get reassembled.
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I thought that the lamp had a nickel plating on it.
I got to reading about this brand of old lamp and that nickel plating turns out to be some sort of a special paint that was produced back in that time.
There are areas where the paint has been peeled or rubbed away.
I’m tempted to send the parts off and have them all nickel plated just to bring back that new shiny look.
 
Here’s a close-up of the pod. I’m sure that upper left fit more flush before, but after reassembly things are a little misaligned. I hate taking apart interior stuff - it never goes back together the way it was before.

View attachment 91983

This corner is the one that has started splitting.

View attachment 91984
I just have my fuel pressure and Bluetooth mic in my cubby. Nice work!
 
I just have my fuel pressure and Bluetooth mic in my cubby. Nice work!
I added my bluetooth mic to my deck finally while I had the dash apart. I didn't really think about it when I first put the truck together, but then one time I was streaming music and had to make a phone call and then it was an ordeal.... I snaked mine across the dash, up the A pillar and then across the headliner where I clipped it up by the overhead console. Hopefully it's close enough to be effective.
 
Now that is a gem there!

I love this style of dash, only thing I dislike is the options for aftermarket stereos. since my dash is already falling apart, I ended up cutting part of it out to allow the bezel made for a double din stereo install. I'm not fond of the angle it mounts it due to the glare the sunlight puts on it were you can't see the screen that well. I went on the hunt for a single din unit that had one of those double din'ish screens on them that was adjustable.

Finally found one that I could tilt down so it actually would face you flat but it's one of those chineesium units on the jungle site, not sure I want to go that route. Way too much creative modifications for me to possibly mount one in the factory spot next to the gauges for me to even try. I like the bigger screen for use with my phone and the map navigation. Otherwise I would be happy with anything that would BT to my phone for music. I've been pondering the idea of trying to copy the design of this dash building it from wood. then possibly making a slightly larger area below the center vents to allow one of these stereos to sit straight in the dash there. I'm hopeful I will run across a "junk" dash for one if these just for the inner steel section to build off from. since most of the dash are all flat surfaces other than the section the houses the gauges, I don't think it would be too hard to do using oak 1x8's and some oak trim pieces with some steel structure underneath. it would be certainly one of a kind if I could actually pull it off LOL.
I dismantled the old dash today.

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This is all it has for metal framework. There really isn’t much at all. Not sure you’d be that much further ahead with your idea of making a full custom dash by starting with an old dash first.

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Wow! I thought it would have more structure under there! on the 95 there is a round bendy tube with braces coming off it for structure, figured it went up into the dash to the tops for support too!
 
Wow! I thought it would have more structure under there! on the 95 there is a round bendy tube with braces coming off it for structure, figured it went up into the dash to the tops for support too!
Nope, not much at all with this generation. Actually, the biggest thing you’d get from an old dash would be the ductwork.

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I decided this was a good opportunity to clean up the frame and front suspension since I didn’t do it during the initial build. I’m also going to do a GMT800 brake conversion - the 3500 dually brakes felt fine, but comparing the pad sizes between GMT400 and GMT800, the 800s have a big advantage, so I’m also going to do that, because why not?

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Over 15 years ago I bought a sandblasting cabinet from work when they decided they didn’t need it any longer. I hooked it up at my old house and it wouldn’t siphon the abrasive, so I set it aside to figure out later. I decided it was finally “later”. I bought some parts to repair it and got it working today. I started cleaning up parts I removed earlier this week.

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