#08-07-30-049: Transmission Oil Cooler Line Leak (Replace Affected Cooler Line) - (De

[tracker954x4]

Subject:Transmission Oil Cooler Line Leak (Replace Affected Cooler Line)

Models:2006-2007 Chevrolet Silverado Classic 2500/3500 Series
2007-2009 Chevrolet Silverado 2500/3500 Series
2006-2007 GMC Sierra Classic 2500/3500 Series
2007-2009 GMC Sierra 2500/3500 Series
Equipped with 6.6L Diesel Engine (VINs D, 2, 6 -- RPOs LBZ, LLY, LMM)​

<A href="http://gsi.xw.gm.com/si/showDoc.do?docSyskey=2218713&from=sm#ss1-2218713">Condition

Some customers may comment on a transmission fluid leak. This concern will be more prevalent in extreme cold climates.
Further inspection may find that the leak is coming from one of the transmission cooler lines at the hose to steel line crimp.
<A href="http://gsi.xw.gm.com/si/showDoc.do?docSyskey=2218713&from=sm#ss2-2218713">Correction

If the under vehicle inspection reveals transmission fluid leaking from one of the cooler lines, replace the affected cooler line. New transmission cooler lines have been released to address this concern. These new lines have been manufactured with an updated crimp process to better withstand the cold temperatures. Refer to SI for the replacement procedures.
<A href="http://gsi.xw.gm.com/si/showDoc.do?docSyskey=2218713&from=sm#ss3-2218713">Parts Information

Part Number Description
20759971 -Pipe Assembly, Trans Fluid Cooler (Upper/Outlet)
20759972 -Pipe Assembly, Trans Fluid Cooler (Lower/Inlet)
20759973 -Hose Assembly, Trans Fluid Aux Cooler Inlet
<A href="http://gsi.xw.gm.com/si/showDoc.do?docSyskey=2218713&from=sm#ss4-2218713">
Warranty Information

For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time
K9528*
Transmission Fluid Aux Cooler Inlet Hose - Replace
1.7 hrs
Add
To Replace Lower Pipe if Required
0.2 hr
K9529*
Transmission Fluid Cooler Upper Pipe Assembly - Replace
2.3 hrs
Add
To Replace Lower Pipe or Aux Cooler Hose if Required
0.2 hr
Add
To Replace Lower Pipe and Aux Cooler Hose if Required
0.4 hr
Add
With 4WD
0.6 hr
K9530*
Transmission Fluid Cooler Lower Pipe Assembly - Replace
1.5 hrs
* This is a unique labor operation for bulletin use only. This number will not be published in the Labor Time Guide.

 

[btfarm]

I ordered the new lower to the radiator with the new crimp (it IS different) from GM parts direct and received it yesterday at $38.55 to my door. That's still cheaper than the $100 deductable I'd have to pay on the extended warrantee. Haven't installed it yet. Might be a couple of weeks. How much DexVI will I need to replace?

 

[tracker954x4]

I ordered the new lower to the radiator with the new crimp (it IS different) from GM parts direct and received it yesterday at $38.55 to my door. That's still cheaper than the $100 deductable I'd have to pay on the extended warrantee. Haven't installed it yet. Might be a couple of weeks. How much DexVI will I need to replace?

It just all depends on how low your fluid level is when you start. I've only ever had to add a quart or two at the most. I also plug the fitting on the transmission when i replace the lines to keep from loosing fluid. Some will run out of the trans when you pull the line out. Not sure how long it will continue to drain though.

 

[btfarm]

Thanks Noah. I've never pulled one of those clip type lines apart before. What's your proceedure? I'm kinda assuming I'll have to pull the airbox out to get to the bottom one.

 

[tracker954x4]

Thanks Noah. I've never pulled one of those clip type lines apart before. What's your proceedure? I'm kinda assuming I'll have to pull the airbox out to get to the bottom one.

I do them from the bottom. I just go in between the inner fender and the frame, you will also need to remove the plastic deflector from underneath to gain access from the underside of the lines. I use a small pick to remove the wire clip from the fitting (be careful with this because the clip can go flying), Just work the clip out of the slot. There is also a plastic clamp that holds both cooler lines to the side of the engine, its a bit of a PITA sometimes to get undone. Once you get the line undone on both ends you can pull it out towards the rear of the truck, it can be a little tight getting the front portion to come down past the lower radiator hose, but with a little persuasion it will come out.

 

[btfarm]

Well I went for it today. Pretty simple at the trans. Not so simple at the clamp. I didn't want to break it so I must have spent an hour (seemed like it) figuring that out. Then it got ugly... Pulled the lower deflector and tied back the wheel well and reached up in there with a pick. Didn't see how I was going to get my hand far enough in there to put the clip back in. Looked around at how to get the snorkle out and the duct to give me some more room. Started to take the air box out and then said to hell with it because I didn't want to get stuck working on it for 2 days. Put the old line back in the trans and re-attached the clamp. I'm a bit and a bit but I really think I'd need to do this one another way since I don't have a hoist and from the floor it seems too risky at the front. BTW, had the RF wheel and tire off too. Any ideas Noah? How do I get the snorkle and duct out?
Thank You!

 

[tracker954x4]

Yeah, it is kinda tight on the front. I've got pretty small hands and i do them all on a lift so its a bit easier for me.

As far as removing all the airbox and stuff, just undo the clamps on the hose and give the filter housing a tug. Its just got some barbed plastic pieces that hold it down to the bracket underneath.

 

[btfarm]

What's really in the way to do it from the bottom as I see it (besides the radiator coolant inlet) is the air inlet for the turbo (at least I assume that's what the snorkle and hose are). If I could get that snorkle out of the way, I'd be good. Does that have to be removed from below the air box?

 

[tracker954x4]

You're talking about the two tubes with the tapered rubber pieces that come off the bottom of the air box right? The easiest way to get them out of the way would be to just remove the airbox alltogether. Besides, if i remember correctly they don't come off of the air box.

 

[btfarm]

No, I'm talking about the plastic box that has a rubber hose about 3" dia. just above and slightly to the right of the lower radiator hose inlet going to the turbo housing casting at the right bank. I assume that's part of the turbo cooler circuit. It's been a while since I felt so dumb and wish I had a digital camera so I could have taken a picture while I was under there.

 

[tracker954x4]

:doh: Don't feel bad. lol I work on these for a living and I'm not even sure as to what you're talking about. Looks like I'm gonna have to do some looking to figure out what you're talking about.op2::noidea:

 

[btfarm]

It's on the bottom of the tube that goes up to the grid heater.

 

[tracker954x4]

I got a chance to look at one today. I see now what you are talking about. That is the outlet from the intercooler. There is a larger version of the metal clips that hold the trans lines in that holds that pipe on the intercooler. Just use a small flatblade screw driver or something like that to take that clip out. You don't have to take the clip all the way off, just get it out of the groove. The pipe will be a tight fit to get on and off, but just be patient with it.

 

[btfarm]

Ok. Once I pull the tube (hose/pipe) down there, do you think the box it's connected to will pop out of there pretty easy? Thinking of taking another stab at it this Sunday. Actually the hose being out of there will probably give me enough room to reach around the box snout. I'm sure it'll be a bit tight with 85 k miles on it.

 

[tracker954x4]

Once you get it loose everything should come out fairly easy. Just make sure to use lots of lube when putting it back together.

 

[dmaxx3500]

gm dealer wants to pull my front bumper off to do mine [for the 2nd time and i have to pay for 1/2 [there only 13 months old]

 

[reds_auto_rehab]

the bumper does not have to be removed in order to replace the lines.

http://www.redsautorehab.com/products.html