Dtc 32 and 33, though egr is deleted by a plate under the tower.
Dtc 39, tcc stuck off, even though I can hear and see (rpm) the torque converter unlocking when I tap the brake with my left foot.
Dtc 68 and 85.
Check engine light is pretty much on and off all the time.
Thoughts?
Thanks.
You guys know these trucks....I do not have a clue how to remove the speakers from the front doors of my 1995 Silverado. Can somebody show me a step by step how to. Also, which battery should I hook my amps up to?
Thank you.
14, 31, 32, 33, 57, 62, 68, 85. It seems to be running well still, and I believe the temp sensor code is from having a vinyl grill cover, since it was so warm today. I have reset all codes, and opened the breather holes in the grill cover. Any ideas if there is a common denominator with any...
I have noticed that pretty much everything under the hood that is made of plastic is extremely brittle. There is a plastic shield over the whole firewall, and every time I even touch it, pieces break off it.
Can I just lengthen my harness and move the FSD that I have? Any tips?
What gauge wire should be used? I am sure that I read somewhere on this site about a specific type of solder to use for the connections.
Thanks.
I ordered a new harness for those solenoids... it will be here in the morning. It is weird what it is doing...I get no codes...But I am getting a stumble/stall at light throttle application..but only after it is warm.
Pump is making 60cm or 24in vac. By the time it works its way through its circuit, it shows as 49cm or 20in.
I also discovered an intermittent broken wire right at the connector to the middle of the three solenoids. As I wiggled it, I could hear the solenoids stop working, and vacuum...
Also..there are three what I assume to be egr control solenoids mounted at the rear of the drivers side intake, with vacuum lines going to them. If I remove the vacuum line that goes to the firewall from those solenoids and then blow in the line while I am plugging the egr vacuum connection, air...
dtc 39 is gone now.
I changed the brake switch, I have driven it a few times, no more dtc 39.
Now I get dtc 33 'egr control pressure/baro sensor circuit high'. If I clear codes and drive it, 33 comes back, and the truck sometimes stumbles.
What could be the cause of this code?
I have fixed/cleaned/added grounds, cleared the codes, and it seems to run and drive ok except for the random stalling. I drove it for a few ten minute trips, and I would check codes each time, and just the 12 would come up. After it was fully warm, it started to randomly stall.As I slowed up...