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I have no clue on the condition of the engine internals, it's a new t-stat 195*, the temp gauge reads around 195-200 all the time. i've never seen it go above that, however northern michigan hasn't seen real high temps. As far as doing a leak-down test for blowby. I have a leak-down tester...

Hi, I'm currently running around 10-12 mpg around town. I was wondering if there's anything I can do to improve this. The engine is stock. I'm looking to do some long haul towing and wouldn't mind if the towing mpg were around this, but with no load I should have just bought a gasser...

I've got a code 35 which reads: DTC 35 - Injection Pulse Width Error (Time Short). Can someone explain this to me and what it is I need to fix? The throttle is ineffective. The engine just revs from 1000-1800. Each time it sounds like it might idle down, the rpms jump right back up.

the truck is "running", but surging 1000-1500 rpm. I adjusted the IP clockwise if you are looking at the front of the engine to get the truck to start. any possibilities on the surging?

If the PMD caused the over-rev, and has not been replaced would it continue to do the same thing or eventually just die? I dont disagree it could be the PMD, however assuming that nothing has changed in the black box since the day I towed it home and now, wouldnt it start and over-rev again?

just tested voltage at the glow plugs on the left bank. I got 5 volts at the rear two and 11 at the front two. something is fishy.... any thoughts?

no codes on the scanner i'm not sure what an FOS is? I had the truck on a charger, 50A initially since the batteries have been sitting, then down to 15A in the interim of cranking, 225A while cranking. The glow plug light would come on, then turn off, then we'd start cranking. Shortly...

the truck started for a brief moment when I purchased it, obviously the run-away at start-up required immediate shut down. The truck is a 95 k2500, Im a bit baffled that this took 3hrs to try and bleed with minor sputters. I may try the glow plug removal just to keep the starter from getting...

Hi, just got my truck back together(had it apart 2 months). spent 14 hrs today doing final bolt-up and trying to start the truck. I've followed procedures to bleed the filter, bleed the fuel drain line, and crack the injector lines while cranking to get rid of as much air. the only thing I...

The noise is "dirty" electricity. Adding a ground from the housings may help, or securing/cleaning grounds can generally get rid of the "interference" that poor grounds cause.

no I have not, is there a special diesel leak-down tester? Or will my gasoline tester work, Im guessing i would need an adapter to screw into the injector port.

Thanks for the info. There is some oil coming from the compressor side, but I've also noticed oil leaks from the engine pan and valve covers and it leads me to believe that maybe the CDR isn't working, any confirmation on that? I think the $30 kit to rebuild the turbo may be worth it for peace...

I've purchased a '95 with a 6.5L TD with 230,000mi, this truck is my first diesel, however I've restored and done plenty of work on rare cars so it's a matter of attention to detail that I believe will get me through. The truck was purchased with a bad IP, it started but immediately revved...