Maybe once it's broken in the mileage will improve! :happy:
That's great mpg, the 55 mph with 3.73's is about the optimum place to drive it for max mileage. My trucks have all had 4.10's and driving at 70 plus the rpm are up over 2,300, really kills mileage at that point.
Will, took me a while the first time to get it right, first did it with my Suburban just to see if it all worked out like it should. The "what gears do I have" question comes up a lot, and since most all these trucks had the same tranny, you can look at wheel size, and you have a speedo and...
If you want to have a bit of fun with numbers .........
4th gear in a 4L80 is .75:1 ratio. Stock 245/75-16 tires have a circumference of 95.8".
60 mph / 60 = 1 mile/min x 5,280 ft./mile x 12 in./ft. = 63,360 in./min
63,360 / 95.8 in. = 661.4 x 4.10 gears x .75 4th gear = 2,034 rpm
Not sure...
The rpm should tell the story, assuming you are running stock size tires. My 4.10 6.5's have run about 2,000 rpm at 60 like Don said, about 2,350 at 70, a bit over 2,500 at 75 mph.
I'd think if you were sucking air pre lift pump you'd have problems while running, air constantly being introduced. You're absolutely sure no glow issue on that cylinder?
PMD in the bumper? You're supposed to mount it directly on the exhaust manifold where it can stay warm! :)
I ran my Suburban for something like 8 months with a failing IP that needed to have cold water poured on it for warm starts. I had 4 water bottles I kept refilling, pop the hood and pour and away I went. I actually considered using a window washer pump and bottle to be able to push a button...
I was only replying to this post, I was clarifying that you were talking about 6 gauge, not 6/0 gauge.
Can never hurt to upsize. That one to the firewall I didn't think needed anything close to 6 gauge, it's the cables carrying battery starting and grounding power that are the main problem...
Correct. But, as I said earlier, if you are not calculating the miles traveled divided by the gallons pumped in, full to full, you can't go by the number.
14 mpg is about what I'd expect in mixed driving in your truck. My K2500 Suburban lost about 2 mpg when I went from skinny 235/85-16's...
OK, 245/75-16 revs/mile is 682. 295/75-16 revs/mile is 622. So you are going 8.8% faster than your speedo indicates, and are traveling 8.8% more miles than your odometer tells you. When your speedo says 60 you are really going 65. When your odometer says you traveled 400 miles, you really...
If you like, I'll calculate the % difference on your odometer and speedometer for you. Let me know what size tire your door sticker indicates, probably 245/75-16. Need to know that to know what your dash is calibrated to.
I'd bet you have a 42 gallon tank. Regardless, you can't check mpg...
I looked through it quick - unless I missed it, they stay with the stock battery connectors? Really surprised they don't go to studs and washers and nuts, MUCH better connections.
6.5TD.Club, are you doing the math to account for your bigger tires? Assuming nobody did dip switches to account for them, your speedo and odometer are reading low because of fewer rotations per mile with larger tires. So your mpg would appear lower since it records fewer miles.
deejaaa I think you mean it had 6 gauge before the change.
I've up-sized cables and improved connectors on 3 6.5's now, it's an amazing improvement over the foolish undersized stock cables and badly constructed side connectors. Cold weather rotational speed is greatly improved.
Like Will said, if the PO doesn't know what tune is in it, he doesn't know anything else for sure either. I'd call Heath Diesel, explain that you bought the truck with a tune and are wondering if it's theirs. They can check your VIN to see if they sold one for that truck.
The 295 tires aren't...