no, it will not hurt them. based on ambient temp the glow plugs stay on for a predetermined amount of time after the light goes out and the engine is running. so cranking will not hurt anything
I use autometers and I have had great luck with them. My boost is mechanical and pyro is electrical K-Type thermocouple. I have a thermocouple reader and when I read the thermocouple separate of the gauge it varies like 20 degrees colder that the gauge reads. for a non calibrated gauge I dont...
Battery removal is not necessary from what I have seen but if you require more room it is much easier to remove than the inner fender liner. Thanks for the write up
I would have to say that the ZF is the best choice to use the torque of a diesel. because if you think about it a slush box works on fluid power transmission and as we all know there is alot of effeciency loss that way. 2 identical trucks except for a ZF in one and an Ally in the other bone...
you should be ok but as you know the tranny will need severe work and remember to use your head with the turbo. Bear in mind NastyGirl had BIG money inthe engine and is NOWHERE near stock
Lets get a thread going here on which fluids everyone is using and where. This will make for a good list of fluids for future questions. I will start, lets try and keep this thread to a list of fluids and capacities only.
Enigne Oil: Mobil Delvac 1, 10 Qts.
Engine Coolant: Dexcool...
as far as max HP for the ZF I dont know anyone who has broke one with too much power. there have been a few broken but I am running about 500 RWHP and I have not broken anything yet, just two stock clutches
I say we start over here with the hand shakers club we are a new site so see the new thread http://dieseltowingresource.com/showthread.php?p=4675#post4675