jep, noticed that very silent drive train. but also noticed the missing cut off for engine braking... and absolutely missing it :-) so I made my override switch, I will take that out again, just in case someone else will drive it.
with my heavy MH rig, it only brakes if forced into 2nd or 1st...
pls enlighten me as to why do you need the overrun clutch activ while you select 1 through 3 but you don't if you are in OD but still drive in those same gears 1 though 3?
i really need to get myself some paperwork for the 4l80e, its to different to the 722.x im used to.
because its fun, and its my first US style MH, so basically a test balloon what i want on my next one. and im already hunting for that. it'll be an other mechanics MH or probably a copart ritchi bros thing i shoot for cheap and then have lots of fun fixing it up.
in the meantime i will have to...
@Will L.
haha
you know, i clearly understand it.
but then, do you really need those bitching about 100 bucks?
i fix cars only for who appreciate my work and absolute love to detail. most of my customers are friends or have become friends. they drop of before going on a long distance, i...
thank you so much for you're very detailed explanations
I do not actually do engine braking in third gear if I want to break down I usually force it into second or even first.
the fitting doesn't matter really if its up to the pressure, but the pipe hes putting it on does absolutely matter. never ever put any sort of compression fittings on aluminum....
but for super low pressure system there are aluminum pipes in the market... so he needs to make sure his stuff is...
if hes cutting, put foam ear plugs into the pipe, then cut and deburr, then peel the left over half earplugs out with a needle or small pliers, that way no chips end in the hydraulic system.
make sure you get all of the plug out...
plenty of dead turbochargers around that did eat some cover...
he needs to get himself an adapter:
SAE female 45° flare to what ever he needs on the hydraulic side.
or cut the short pilot off and use compression fittings out of hydraulics, they seem to be long enough after the 90 elbow for having compression fittings on.
make sure for compression...
btw. thats mainly why i fix my own stuff, just imagine you bring your car there and they need to accomplish more than just changing the oil or wheels from summer to winter, and even these 5 year olds tasks these people somehow mange to screw up.
and once more i was spot on when i walked into 7 garages/shops and asked if they could fix it and that the requited parts are in a fuel line repair kit....
i remember Eric O from the south main auto YouTube channel ranting about exactly this kind of BS once, he was so spot on. thats how i knew...
so if i read that right, i can use a SAE 45° flared female to connect to my SAE o-ring short pilot males...
so now i need SAE 45° flared females to nylon fuel hose adapters...
here you find details about the SAE pilot o-ring connection, both male and female
https://www.ryco-hydraulics.com/sae-threads/
in case it foes offline a screenshot is attached
well i can tell you, the 97 factory GM hoses, they hold up just fine, nice soft, not swollen, looking like brand new. not like the crap that was used by National RV... i don't get how they could accomplish to have such a good name as they had, considering the way they operated.
still have to...
well i can tell you, the 97 factory GM hoses, they hold up just fine, nice soft, not swollen, looking like brand new. not like the crap that was used by National...
still have to do the return, but thats at least pressure free (mostly)
i don't "fix" stuff on suggestions or suspicion... i dont fire the parts cannon, unless its common, cheap, fast and contrary to that proving the failed part is a PITA.
what i do is diagnose the faulty part and then go from there, hence why im so allergic to trans specialists telling me to do a...
back in business....
guess what, my bleeding off fuel pressure is gone too, who would have guessed that?
i should not have pushed the bleeding fuel pressure towards dead check valve /pressure regulator like forums kept telling me...
not the sort of repair i was hoping for
but itll get me to my destination
national RV extended the factory lines, put some kind of crappy stuff in between, thats now crumbling....
the factory hoses are alright 30 years and ethanol and everything, just like my VW hoses with 28 years 100%...
my tail is on fire
im flying out of here soon, be back in 10 months.
yep that's why I didn't go straight for a full rebuild
thank you so much for your insights
and I don't really have a home base here we're traveling so each out of season area is another place
this time it is Vancouver BC
highly appreciated Marty, its already steel all the way to the drive axle, just what National added (for the extended frame) after the drive axle is all rubbish, as I've come to expect of all mods they did to the P30 chassis.
so i basically will go out try to finde some guy who can provide...