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Pre turbo is going to give higher readings and if pulling heavy this is the number you want to watch. Heat is used up through the turbo. Cross over gives heat from one side and just before turbo on right manifold gives an average of both sides.

PM sent, don't know if where I bought them (RockAuto) is a site vendor or not. They are cheap order all 16. Bob Seal power # MR1948

Was the brake light switch changed and then this started or have you changed it to try to fix it? What is the code?

Pre 96 6.5 also gets power to LP when key is in the "Start" position, then when it starts the power comes from OPS

Did you replace the Crank Position Sensor? If you reused the old one was the sensor and bracket all one piece or were they two separate pieces? If the sensor came apart from bracket you can put it back 4 different ways and only 1 way is correct. Timing the gears you align the crank dot to 12...

And their is other engineering that is there that you would not even think of. Here is a recall I just had on my 2010 Golf TDI. http://www.autoblog.com/2011/10/06/vw-and-audi-recall-nearly-170-000-tdi-diesel-models/

See Winter Starting Cure post above

Bump

'just replaced my injection pump minutes ago, yes heat flange takes some pulling, I took me 5 hours total, replacing valve cover gaskets so i had to remove injector lines completely, but no problem, easy, good luck" WOW that must have been tight! :D:D

To get at the bottom two lines on the IP I removed the harness (boot and two wires) from the fuel solenoid. I took an old box end 12 pt wrench 19mm I think and ground it to make a line wrench. You have very little room to loosen/tighten lines. And yes that shield should pull up, their are 2...

Never seen a 96 so I can't comment.

Single is a gasket on the housing, the thermostat is a different looking beast. I recommend AC Delco on it too.

This was implemented for safety in crash situations. Engine stalls = no oil pressure = no fuel pumping every where.

Here is what I found on Kennedy site. DC edit - Non-Supporting Vendor link removed. Can be found on KennedyDiesel.com website

That is another way, with mine I have an immobilizer so before I turn that off, if I turn ignition to start the pump runs but engine do not crank.

96 and up are different than 95 down. I think your ecm controls the LP, GM got smarter. Good read located here http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?6872-Lift-Pumps-amp-OPS-operation-and-troubleshooting

"I checked the pump with the motor off and it was pumping away" Does this mean you jumped the relay under the hood and the LP was pumping?

To clean I just capped off the injector line fittings and IP inlet and return and used some carb cleaner. I concentrated on the aluminium parts and avoid electronics and rubber.

Couple months ago I had them out when I did the HG, connected all one by one to the battery. Tried again tonight and I glowed the length of the automatic glow and just a little puff of smoke to let you know she is a diesel.

Just tried starting it this morning and with the 60G glows I have to give it a little longer glow then it starts and runs smooth. Without the extra it will run a little rough and smoke, nothing like before though. I don't know what normal is because it has always (since I have had the truck)...