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had a WIF issue.. which i thought.. "ok, water in fuel, itll burn away till the next tank".. but these guys directed me NOT to drive it cause alot worse mght happen, so after 31 miles i dropped the tank and probably saved the IP, the fuel that came out was a thick biege color.. then started...

i just wanted to say thanks.. had some issues a several weeks ago (month +) and with your guys help, TDoc, Jifaire, Matt, Chevy1500 to name a few, diagnosed and repaired the problems with minimal $ invested.. and my truck has been running great (knock knock knock on wood) instead of what...

x2, i had the same symptoms.. no top end, just floated along above 70-75mph.. no power for anything.. once i opened the T valve, nothing came out, and while i was scurried to jump the lift pump and see if it would start pumping.. truck died within 7-10 secs lift pump was bad

i bought them back when i was having tha WIF issue.. had 6, now has 2 lol.. but well worth it..

x 2 on the gunk.. even brake or carb cleaner, clean it nicely, take it for a 10 min drive, open the hood and look for it one thing to keep in mind.. even though its pooling on that side, it might not be coming from that immediate area, it might be draining from a higher point.. i found my...

yup... here too, $26 and better i bought a case off ebay for $65

x2, but as far as i know.. and im in NO way a guru here.. the tach needs to receive a generated electrical pulse to spin the needle accordingly to how much of a "generated" signal its receiving. i dont see how the vac pump would supply a voltage signal? ok,maybe an isolated voltage send...

the 0 was all they had, i was looking for 5w or 10w.. im going to try that.. see how that pans out.. im not really comfortable with the engine makins all this racket

yah, read about it AFTER all this happened.. :mad2: but live and learn, it was either that or "champ" filters.. so i opted for the name from what ive read, this might be the cause of the pressure drop

thats the weight i put, but i used a fram

i just got a 75 gallon bed tank, the PO had a bed tank but kept it, but the pump is still there, and he had it plumbed into the fill hose by using a T to have the pump, pump from the bed tank into the fill hose, just as if i was filling the tank at a station? what affects would that have...

lol...

matuva:.. yes.. that loud swoosh sports cars make.. same scenario.. soon as i chop the throttle from anything above 3/4 Chrisk1500: very similiar, but very noticeable.. just like a turbo sports car more like.. (floor it)..... sssSSSSSSSSSS (chop throttle) SWOOSH!!! and...

i just pumped enough pressure to push the oil out.. i was holding the nipple closed with my thumb.. so it was minimal.. better safe than sorry

oh yah.. no where close to that.. i held it closed with my finger.. maybe 10-15 pounds i figured.. oil pressure = 40-50 psi... stay below that!! waaaay below that to be safe

:shocked: ok.. fair enough.. less work for me ):h

hmmmm.... good point, undid the lines at the block and used compressed air into one to blow the oil out the other one that was a friendly little "fwap" to the back of my head!! duh...lol ill have to check.. easy enough.. ironic.. the lines are right on top of the filter adapter

oh, so that spike in pressure is actually bled into the engine.. ok.. sounds more feasable i guess.. must be safe for the engine considering it was designed that way right?.. but let me ask you something, when cruising, and i kill the throttle, i notice the engine kinda keeps spinning for a sec...

so its blowing it back into the exhaust? what a weird setup how dependable would that be with a TM from heath and a boost fooler?

i switched to synth yesterday, and today ran the truck.. engine spins easier and i now own a rev happy turbo.. i've heard it before, but not this apparent.. under quick on /off throttle applications, in the power band (1600-2200), im sure you guys hear the boost pressure blowing out from...