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Worst case scenario is they become more of an umbrella seal and move up and down with the valve

They probably will but I'm used to alot of the newer engines having a positive snap on the guide. Again check with your machine shop

I would try not to use the oring. Maybe talk to your machine shop and see if there's a version that you don't have to machine.

That oring is what gm used on a lot of engines. Not sure on their reasoning. I believe to use the other style the guides have to be machined to be able to have them snap on and stay .

The ones in your link are LEDs

What do you mean by mini?

They are squished between the head and block.

if you decide to remove the precups you first remove the injector and then use a wooden dowel to reach in and drive it out

I wouldn't be surprised if both block and head are original to the burb. If those are big valve heads I wouldn't get carried away with power. Power usually means heat and those big valve heads were notorious for cracking between the valves

I was thinking along the lines of extending the float

Seems anymore you have to be a very good customer (volume) to get one

That plunger was used on the db2 IP equipped engines. That yellow arrow splash thingy is for timing the IP

I've had pretty good luck with just a high quality putty knife, a thick one that's not flexible. I sharpen it every so often and have even used it on aluminum parts. Key is to be careful. I'd shy away from the carbide one.

Yes

Your dating us Paul. My grey hairs show it too lol

A guy could cut out the egr on the one and weld it up

I don't like the striker pin to be used for height adjustment of the door only in and out. You should be able to adjust the rear height with the hinges as well

those hinges are adjustable, I'd try that before tweaking on things

Unless the guides have already been changed at some point. The guides are cast iron and part of the head

If those are the rockers I think they are, some people really like them over the rocker button ones