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Today, I got the patience to get the pump timed, and got the electronics to gather data, I could use. The speedometer issue is next, besides carpet and headliner install

I have 2 pmds mounted to bumper with heat sinks, both on harnesses. I tried “extra” new one and plugged in by pump. Nothing.

I replaced the cps, and the old one is fine. When it started with optical sensor off, it had a bare wire from pinching. I think another one is pinched., will look. The fuel shutoff solenoid should be level for static, if I remember correctly. I also see me replacing the starter soon , as it is...

Update, still have a shutdown at operating speed, it needs to be retimed. Does anyone have a picture of the static pump scribe marks. The military mark makes no sense. Also, the speedo runs crazy fast , I put a new sensor in, but no change. I can’t believe it drove to Toronto last month...

One last point, the internet is littered with these posts, and nobody ever admits what was wrong.

Yesterday, when the truck fired up after I removed OS plug. I went against conventional next step and considered it as a wiggle test. This morning, I took the upper intake off and looked for a pinched wire from the tranny I put in, I found some chafing and soldered anything that looked at me...

This repair is as good as it can get. The pain still needs management, Im feeling better. Plus, they removed the staph ridden implant and I didn’t get sick this time. Life is good. The 6.5 now lives

That’s why my truck sat. Pain, but I had my ninth back fix and I am as pain free since 2004.

This is just a random question. The static timing line on the timing cover puts the fuel shut off near the thermostat housing if lined up? This is the first time I have ever looked where my back wasn’t in excruciating pain. Maybe it’s first time I noticed. I came to the conclusion that I have...

Today I put the scanner to the truck, cause, electric has been gone through and the pcm is giving me 10 seconds of WTS. I popped off the optical sensor plug and it wanted to start. The values for the TPS seems low. I have to look into that as I never had reason too.

I will clean those tomorrow, I have 2 harnesses set up on 2 pmd’s in bumper. I will try that , as it cant hurt . I found chafing to heater control and radio in dash. I still have no dash lights. I cleaned all the contacts in there. I often think the conductor tape contacts may not all be...

The dash terminals are dirty. Im glad I looked to clean them again. My last month is probably 2022.

I’m a watchmaker, I didn’t consider using broaches and tiny files

I replaced the combi switch, because cruise was gone. Still no start. Things I forgot to mention on drive to Toronto. The speedo was not accurate, maybe the rpm also. I am pulling the instrument cluster today to add bulbs as I had no lighting in the cluster. I’m cleaning both grounds that attach...

I’m going to continue to look for chafing, and let it sit till right switch arrives. I should continue stitch welding the lower cab panels and vacuum the leaves from yard.

The locksmith said it did, but I prefer advice from here. Never had bad advice. What part of cruise control has to do with injector pump? I added a simple scanner and found my cruise module is bad, I ordered a replacement multi switch, cause I think it’s in there and the contacts are not good...

I’m going to bypass that for good measure, after I get the correct resistor. I put a cheapo scanner and the code says cruise control module failure. I need a new multi switch. The good news is that I have been thoroughly through everything, and repaired issues and potential ones

You have a good memory

I did that 10 minute relearn yesterday.. I have another ecm that im sending out for a tune for ATT turbo. I will hook up software today and see if any soft codes appeared yesterday. Is there any reason not to bypass the security system and then do a relearn?