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Sorry 'bout the delayed response, but, yeah, the video should make things go easier - also, the GM boxes are easier than the Dodge, with it's multi-piece valve-body

yeah...what she said......the rest of that stuff just makes my head hurt...................

Load-test your batteries....both of 'em - then begin with the cables, checking for oxidation\corrosion, terminal integrity at each post, particular notice to the + crossover cable at both batteries, both-side grounds to the engine block, starter connection, etc - then the glow plugs - should...

Me, too.........but the Master switch on my surge-protection and power center is in the OFF position when I walk away from this PC at nite, completely disconnecting ac power from the PC and all peripherals - even have a switch to disconnect the modem from the phone line - my PC is in enforced...

Correct - to increase temp of engagement you would shorten the coil, lengthen the tab-strip, rotating the shaft in the opposite direction to open the gates Had the adjustment by screw instead of the bend'n'reform method - had no reliable way to counter-balance the mechanism - can you say...

Other than that precautionary note, it will work with any viscous clutch with external bimetal thermostat - I had one with a vernier-adjust setup on it, but gave up on the idea due to inertial mass imbalance

Don't fergit to run the engine awhile to purge and fill the coolant passages, shut it down, let it cool, pop the radiator cap and top-off the radiator with 50\50 mix - neglect of that procedure has caused many an incident of overheating after coolant system rework

Not necessarily - to be digital usually implies switching is by an electronic source, tho could be by mechanical source, such as a cam-operated switch as input to a digital counter - or, the brake switch input to the PCM, or the Cruise switch inputs to PCM - or dipswitch inputs in any circuit...

Correct - if the injectors are capable of +80hp at 60lbs\hr fuel rate, but yer pump puts out only 40lbs\hr, you def ain't gonna get no 80hp increase outta them injectors, right? Gotsta turn up the pump to get the job done - was easy with the DB2 Could get some improvement if original...

You're making the original tab-strip shorter, adding length to the coil winding, thus rotating the shaft such that the internal gates are more closed - this procedure is sometimes called 're-clocking' the clutch Fer-eggs-ample-test - take the significant other's electric hair-dryer (while that...

The "tuning" of the IP.................. And, tnx for that link, turbovanman - my 'search' acumen is infamously notorious BTW - would appear as tho we have similar exhaust\tailpipe (there's that p-word, again!) preferences, from the 'blue oval' - mine's late '90's F350 cc longbed...

My bad - overlooked the question - Diesel oil is high-compression extreme-duty rated for turbocharger service, meaning it is rated for turbocharged EGT's - oil will burn, so it will also evaporate at elevated temperatures (oily fumes, which ignite even easier) - thin oil evaporates at lower...

Also helps if that bimetal coil is not caked with grease'n'dirt'n'stuff, which can insulate it from direct thermal response, thereby raising the temperature of engagement even higher than stock - remove the oem RTV blob to release the tab - carefully pry\pull the vertical tab of the coil...

At 13psig Boost the CDR will be completely closed - the dirtier the air filter the closeder it is - the spring is calibrated for 7-8psig - at idle and 2000-3000 test rpm there will be little-to-no Boost at sea level - the manometer test verifies that the air filter is clean, and the effluent...

Gotsta understand the underlying concept(s) Buddy - if it's blowing oil out of the engine, the breathing system is stopped up, or the path is stopped up - if he can blow thru the CDR from both directions, the CDR ain't stopped up, so he needs to look elsewhere - and if he's losing engine oil, he...

That sound is the timing chainset and IP drive and driven gears - sounds sorta like a chainsaw on an iron pipe, but that's normal - at 200k kms or 200kmi, it's about due for a timing chainset Are the bubbles like a small trickle or a steady trickle, or like a piranha on a kitten? Give it a...

No apology required -your post is indicative of the trust and respect members have for the information base on this site - so much so, that it sometimes takes a gentle reminder that visual is a prime troubleshooting tool: tell us what you see, we can tell you what you got And, understood on...

Hit your local boneyard for same size lines on GM vans and trucks - has identical male and female fittings - gasser (patooie!) trucks have fuel filter on frame where your lift pump is

Bimetal strip - two different alloys bonded together - heat it and one alloy expands faster than the other, so the strip curves as it lengthens - form it into a coil with the quicker-expanding alloy on the outside, and the result is the coiled strip uncoils as it lengthens, the resulting...

See how well it works out when you get outta yer computer chair and go out and take look fer yerself? Gets you back on the road quicker and saves us a bunch of wild-assed guessing, to boot...............